Sideways says it is about finding wine and women. After that kind of a delectable, frothy promise, the film's premise is actually about two guys finding themselves. A frustrated drunk and his best friend travel into California's wineries, and begin discovering their true selves.

The powerful screenplay has been elevated greatly by some tremendous histrionics, the actors turning in some truly incredible performances. Paul Giamatti is one of Hollywood's most understated actors, and his matchless job is aided here by Thomas Haden Church and a terrific Virginia Madsen.

This is among the most sensitive films of the year, while not being trite. Which is quite an achievement.