What do you think of four Fashion Weeks this year? Is it a benefit or
drawback? On a personal level, is it an advantage?
Since so many people are participating, there is definitely enough business to go around. Having so many Fashion Weeks can work, but the point is that there needs to be enough talent to go around as well. In my opinion, out of
the 200-odd designers today, maybe 30 have talent. It is very important to have quality control to develop some sort of evolved aesthetic sense. For instance, I'm against the concept of bling. I've had enough of it and can't
look at it anymore.
Why do you think plus sizes are not showcased on the Indian ramp as they are abroad?
I've always used plus-sized women for my shoots. All my garments are for size 12 women and bigger. The fact is that Indian girls have boobs and hips. It's something that can't be avoided. We need to be able to cater to them.
When doing a fashion show, everything is exaggerated. The clothes are exaggerated, and the hangers that I use for the shows (my models) are exaggerated too. I would either use a size 6 or a size 18. And anyway, what is a "plus size"? Indian models have a very different body type. An American model typically has 34-inch hips, while an Indian model's hips would be 37-38 inches wide. The curves are just different.
Why have you opted to showcase at this Fashion Week, now that you have a choice?
I started with Lakme and have had a good experience here. It was convenient to come back. I feel it's the right place where new designers have some scope for recognition, if they are talented. I've never faced politics here and the business is good. So since I have no complaints, I saw no reason to move to another Fashion Week.
How do you think the global financial crisis will affect the fashion industry?
Well, as long as we wear clothes, there will be a demand for couture. It's not about being affected personally; its more about the mode. The mode right now is combative and depressive. I have made an effort this year, to design
garments that are not too expensive.
To be frank, the biggest spenders today are the ones with black money. I mean, when was the last time you splurged on a pair of shoes? With this financial crisis, the proportion of people choosing to buy high-street fashion will increase and the demand for designer wear will go down.
What do you think are the trends for the next season?
I think we're going to see lots of layering -- and I mean smart layering. There will be silhouettes and shape merging. Also, contrasting prints are in. You might see a large print on a garment, and a smaller version of the
same print on the same garment.
Text: Insiyah Vahanvaty
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