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Bewitched By London's Thumkada

February 11, 2026
By ZELDA PANDE
7 Minutes Read

All photographs: Zelda Pande for Rediff

There are places that are on your bucket list and when you get there, you can satisfyingly cross them off your Places To See Before You Die roster.

And then there are destinations, like birthday candles on a cake that refuse to blow out, which relentlessly keeping popping back on your B List.

London is one of mine.

You can never have enough of London. The magical megapolis draws you back year after year.

Although there were moments year before last when I swore I would not visit again in summer because the tourist hordes are crazy and often misbehaved.

For me visiting London is a short, very cheap plane ride away when I go visit my daughter in Dublin.

Many things keep bringing me back...

IMAGE: Excellent Mushroom Risotto can be found at Borough Market.

The food, of course.

Borough Market and all its wondrous delights.

IMAGE: Food of every stripe is available in this former Mayfair church.

Mercato Mayfair, housing food stalls inside a handsome church, has a good range of international fare.

IMAGE: Cucumber, egg, cheeese finger sandwiches, freshly-baked cakes, warm scones with clotted cream are available at Fortnum & Mason tea room.

The tea lounges, for a once-in-a-way splurge like Picadilly's Fortnum & Mason or the Ritz for their uppah class chai and very British bites.

IMAGE: Every shape of pasta under the sun at Harrods.

Harrods food hall that makes buying a pasta dish to takeaway feel like you are truly elite; the preparations taste wonderful too.  I haven't yet tried the single Japanese strawberry selling for 30 pounds but their Creme Brulee is yum.

And then the umpteen exquisite little restaurants offering great meals, with a drink, a dessert and a starter, apart from the main course, at a price far less than what you would pay in Bombay.

The chocolate, for sure.

I always go and pick a few liqueur-laced pieces from Charbonnel and Walker. Or Laderach. Or Hotel Chocolat.

Grocery shopping. Yes. I can't go to any city and not look for interesting food ingredients in the grocery stores. Waitrose for truffle herbal cheese or cream crackers or scones or fondue (that the Irish have never heard of). Partridges, this cute little gourmet grocery store, near Gloucester road, for the rare Spanish crackers Inés Rosales Tortas de Aceite that's like a sweet orange-flavoured khakra and other goodies. Or for gifts.

Theatre is another big draw.

IMAGE: Actor Imelda Staunton in autograph mode.

Who can resist watching the incomparable Imelda Staunton in Hello Dolly? Or see Mary Poppins fly above your head.

Else take in the ABBA extravaganza at way out Pudding Mill Lane, north London.

IMAGE: Children's books at Hatchards.

The shopping not so much, because the variety is way too bewildering and it's wildly expensive. Although I love walking the shopping boulevards and I have to buy some books for my grandson always from the storied Hatchards, dating from 1797, a bookshop that is exactly how a bookshop should be, wooden panelled, a quaint lift, grand staircases, hushed, with little warrens of books over five floors and a inviting children's bookroom populated by a giant stuffed tiger.

But there is also something so addictive about the very air of regal London. You can't help it, but when you arrive in London, you can't put your biases away -- you always feel this is it, you have arrived in the greatest city the world has seen and once the largest seats of power.

Walking the beautiful neighbourhoods is such a pleasure -- peering at stately mansions or elegant tiny city homes I would not be able to afford in the next 10 lifetimes.

IMAGE: Tranquil Regent's Canal.

So is strolling along the placid Regent's Canal with its house barges, near Camden Town or Angel. Or following the Thames at Richmond.

Taking one of those gracious black cabs a short distance.

Swooshing down the Thames on an Uber water taxi.

People watching at Westminster Bridge or Hyde Park. Nipping into a random pub for a breather. Standing at night at Piccadilly Circus absorbing the night lights and neon-ness. Roaming the quaint cute City of Westminster. Looking for bargains at Camden Market. Perusing the tiny independent bookshops at Richmond.

I have done the expensive must-do stuff like London Eye, Tower of London and the museums, where tickets set you back a tidy sum.

Now on repeat trips I just prefer to wander, stopping at cafes for refreshments and a dessert.

Last time I had the rare pleasure of taking my grandson too. It was a delightful four days, except when he calmly confessed that he threw my socks out the hotel window.

IMAGE: London Zoo.

He was so excited to see the seals at London Zoo, visit Hamleys and also sample all the umpteen forms of transport.

He enjoyed luxuriating in a tub bath with bubbles. Travelling with bachhas is icing on the cake -- it's so fun.

I usually head once to the food hall at Selfridges and I have twice picked up Lebanese-Turkish food. Strangely it is run by Indians. But I do love their Mujadara, a Middle Eastern rice with crispy onions on top.

It's a simple preparation but rather, rather nice. I slightly Indianised it, while making it at home and served it with a pomegranate relish or raita.

Mujadara Middle Eastern Lentil Rice With Labneh Pomegranate Raita

Serves: 3-4

Ingredients

For the labneh raita:

Method

For the labneh raita:

For the rice:

 
ZELDA PANDE / Rediff.com

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