The first time I tasted Thukpa was in Nepal.
Thukpa is a spicy noodle soup. The noodles are served in a flavourful broth, usually with vegetables and/or meat. It has Tibetan roots and is a staple in Nepal, Tibet and parts of India, including Sikkim, Ladakh and other Himalayan regions.
My memory of that first bowl of Thukpa is tied not just to food, but to that feeling of sitting somewhere higher up in the Himalayas.
I had just finished a hike to Australian Camp, a gorgeous hilltop destination above Pokhara in Nepal's Annapurna region. At around 7,000 feet, it is known for its views of the Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre, the famous Fishtail Mountain.
The hike was tiring and not rewarding. I had gone there hoping to witness sunset views to carry home and keep forever, and instead I was staring at a wall of grey because the clouds had rolled in and the mountains had disappeared completely.
I was tired, cold and disappointed.
The lodge where I was staying was away from the village, sitting on the hillside with what would have been a lovely view on a clear day.
With only fog all around me, I was forced to find warmth in the dining room, where a traditional chulo, a wood-burning stove, was placed for both cooking and heating.
Like many trekking lodges in Nepal, meals are an important part of the stay. In shoulder season, like when I visited that September, it is possible to find lodges offering rooms very cheaply or even free when guests eat their meals there.
I had a fairly simple menu in front of me.
There were Momos. Thenthuk (noodle soup). Laphing (cold noodle dish). Fried rice. Thukpa. Eggs and omelette. And, of course, Nepal's beloved dal-bhat.
By then, I was a little tired of dal-bhat, so I decided to try something I had never really paid much attention to before.
So Thukpa it was.
At that altitude, I was not expecting much and I just wanted something hot and filling before I headed to bed.
Then the bowl arrived.
And, oh my God, it was delicious!
The broth was hot, savoury, comforting, making it a proper meal. The chewy noodles had a nice bite, while the vegetables provided crunch. More than anything, it was exactly the kind of emotional support I needed at that moment. I went to bed feeling happy.
The clouds eventually cleared the next morning (like it always does!), and I finally got to see the mountains. The famous Fishtail Mountain looked wonderfully mesmerising at dawn.
Over the years, I have eaten Thukpa in different places and I have always felt the bowl can change considerably depending on where you eat it.
Just like Japan's famous Ramen and its many broth styles, Thukpa too has different Himalayan communities having their own versions.
One thing I particularly enjoy in Sikkim is having Thukpa with a spicy momo chutney on the side. That sharp, fiery hit works beautifully with the warm broth.
The recipe below is my own home-style amalgamation of those bowls.
It is not meant to be The Definitive Thukpa. It is simply the Thukpa I like making at home.
Eat it hot. Preferably somewhere cold. Preferably after a long day.
And, if you are lucky, with a mountain outside the window :)
My recipe is vegetarian, but that shouldn't stop you from also adding a little shredded boiled chicken, prawns, or some other meat.
Vegetarian Thukpa
Serves 2
Ingredients
- 1 cup noodles, whole wheat, regular or rice
- 1 medium onion, finely sliced
- 3-4 garlic pods, minced
- 1 tsp peeled, finely chopped
- 1 medium tomato, finely chopped
- 1 small carrot, peeled, thinly sliced
- ½ cup shredded cabbage
- ½ cup sliced mushrooms
- ¼ cup thinly-sliced French beans
- 1 green chilly, finely chopped
- 3 cups vegetable stock or water
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp chilly-garlic oil
- ½ tsp black pepper powder
- 1 tbsp oil
- Salt to taste, about 1 tsp
- 1 tbsp chopped fresh green dhania or coriander or cilantro, for garnish
- A few thin slices kaccha or raw onion, for garnish
- Lemon wedges, as required
- 1-2 stalks greens of a spring onion, chopped, for garnish
Method
- Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions.
Drain and keep aside. - Heat the oil in a large saucepan.
Add the onion, ginger, garlic, green chilly.
Cook for 2-3 minutes over medium heat until fragrant and the onion begins to soften.
Then add the tomatoes and cook till slightly soft.
Add the carrot, cabbage, mushrooms, beans.
Stir-fry the vegetables for 3-4 minutes but let them remain slightly crisp rather than cooking till completely soft. - Pour in the vegetable stock or water.
Add the soy sauce, black pepper powder, salt.
Bring to a gentle boil, then lower heat and simmer for about 5-7 minutes.
Add the cooked noodles and simmer for another minute or 2, until just heated through. - Ladle the Thukpa into a large bowl. Finish with slices of kaccha pyaaz , chopped spring onion greens and the fresh coriander, and serve with a squeeze of lemon.
- If you like heat, add a spoonful of spicy momo chutney or chilly-garlic oil on top.
