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While you might not feel the romantic nip in the air a la Paris, Goa is charming no less. The aroma of wet earth humours your lungs, the brooks gushing clear water make a mockery of the water running from your tap and the lush green paddy fields might just tempt you to tend them. Yes, Goa in the monsoons has all the ingredients of a dream holiday: You have peace and solitude in just the right measure.

Thankfully, Goa looks forlorn during the monsoons. There is none of the Xmas rush -- a mela which resembles fleas on vacation. The peace and greenery is so disarming that it lulls you to sleep. But if you are willing to brave the elements though, a tour of the outdoors is highly recommended. To soak in the goodness of Goa in the rains, you must take residence in the villages. And the place to be taking sanyas are the village inns -- quaint makeshift lodges that are known largely by word of mouth.

Find out information about the village inns from your acquaintances in Goa or from the bell-boy, presuming you've already made reservations with that fancy beach-front, five-star hotel. If you have the misfortune of feeling cramped in a concrete jungle, you're bound to dig the inns. Most of them are set in picturesque surroundings. Chances are your inn might just have paddy fields and a monsoon-induced brook in the hinterland. If you are lucky, your hosts may cook trademark Goan meals. Don't expect too much fish for during the monsoons, the trawlers don't venture into the deep seas. What you can take for granted at these inns though is sinfully smooth feni. Actually, the charm of these places lies in the fact that they're not touched by the ogre of commerce. Yet.

Even if you're not fatigued and close to burn-out, a monsoon vacation to Goa is remarkably therapeutic. Get drenched once, and you'll understand the buzz about why people go so far to take a shower.

The best packages available for Goa

The "off season" in Goa extends right up to late September. Hotel bookings are now easy to come by and room rates are at the lowest that they will be in 1998. The five star and deluxe hotels offer various types of packages and there is sharp drop in their room rates. The middle range hotels offer up to 50 per cent discount on their rooms.

However a few hotels, especially of the smaller variety, may be shut, especially the bed and breakfast variety. But in our experience some of these smaller hotels can be coaxed into opening a room or two for a few days.

During the off season there is only a 15 to 25 per cent occupancy in most hotels or even less. When the season begins again by the end of September, the rates shoot up once more and the occupancy rate too shoots up to almost 100 per cent by the year end.

So now is your chance to grab a misty, green vacation on some of the grandest beaches in the world... with no one to keep you company.

Luxury hotels

Middle range and budget hotels

Goa Guide