Entering God's darbar: Inside the Golden Temple

A journey to the Sri Harmandir Sahib, also called the Golden Temple, in Amritsar can evoke purity and peace in even the faithless, writes Vaihayasi Pande Daniel

We trod softly, bare-foot, heads covered, in the rosy dawn light, with hundreds of others, up the cool white marble steps. When we crested the top of the stairs, we had our first memorable view of the lovely 16th century Sri Harmandir Sahib.

It took my breath away.

"Heaven can wait," I murmured to myself, awe-struck, as we gazed in wonder at the fairytale-pretty shrine, shimmering like a golden swan among a flock of shining white ones, in the midst of the serene lake, the Amrit Sarovar.

Yes, your first sight of the Golden Temple, Amritsar, the holiest Sikh shrine, is a wondrous vision you will file away among life's  incredible memories, in the manner that poet William Wordsworth stashed dream images in his mind's eye.

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There is a certain peace and purity the temple instantly evokes in even the faithless.

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Bathed in the dewy morning sunshine and the melodies of rousing kirtans, the Harmandir Sahib, the attached Akal Takht, the Amrit Sarovar, its surrounding clock and watch towers, are together a vast, self-contained world radiating serenity and other-worldliness.

But when you descend to the patterned black and white marble pathways that circumnavigate the tranquil Sarovar -- the temple has four entrances, north, south, east, west, that signify its openness -- you are in the humble egalitarian world of the pilgrim.

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Be they from modest backgrounds or from privileged backgrounds, before god all worshippers are one people -- meek and classless – stripping down to the bare essentials to take a dip in the pool of nectar, under the shadow of gleaming domes coated with more than 600 kg gold...

Or searching for peace in prayer...

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Or putting out their hand, respectfully, for some ghee-sugar-wheat Kada Prasad.

There is a certain warm, open and all-encompassing bonhomie and ambience around the picture-perfect lake, where ducks and ornamental fish swim, making allowances for the bobbing pilgrims.

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The Golden Temple, built in an assorted mix of styles (Hindu, Muslim and Sikh), is a living and evolving canvas of fine art, architectural design, religion and culture.

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Accessible to all, and one of the world's most visited sacred places, the numbers that flood into the Golden Temple every day are hard to reckon. Very broad estimates, from various data sources, suggest that between 80,000 and a lakh visit the gorgeous shrine every day. And upwards of 40,000 eat free daily at the langar -- the temple's communal table, probably the largest in the world -- run by 1,000 volunteers that serves up a simple but hearty meal of dal, rice, roti, sabzi and a sweet.

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It is every Sikh's dream to, at least once in their life, make that journey to the Harmandir Sahib.

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The temple opens as early as 3 am on some days and, by dawn, the devout are pouring in.

As stunningly beautiful as the shrine is, viewing the throng of pilgrims and visitors that descend on this place of worship is even more interesting – it is an eclectic mix of Punjabi villagers...

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As well as Brit Sikhs, like the London Southall folks...

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Well-heeled Sikhs and Punjabis, be they NRIs or from India's metros...

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Tourists, both foreign and Indian.

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To sit quietly on the cool, clean marble tiles, at the water's edge, with the magnificent Harmandir Sahib in sight, watching the surging parade of humanity, reflecting on one's being, is a matchless moment worth remembering, and why the Golden Temple requires many repeat visits.

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