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Day of the Nagas at the Kumbh

Sharat Pradhan in Kumbh Nagari (Allahabad)

It was the day of the Naga sadhus again. At the crack of dawn, a band of the naked ascetics emerged on the banks of the Triveni Sangam to mark the opening of the six-week-long Maha Kumbh Mela's second shahi snan (royal bath).

The Nagas were at the head of the Mahanirvani Akhara (monastic order) that traditionally leads the daylong procession of the 13 main Hindu akharas (monastic orders) whose arrival at the Sangam is a major attraction.

In keeping with convention, the Nagas, who are followers of Lord Shiva, danced for joy as they raced down the sloping banks of the Ganga to plunge into the holy confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and mythical Saraswati amid chants of 'Jaya Gange' and 'Har Har Mahadev'. Millions of Hindus consider a dip at this holiest of holy spots a sure path to nirvana.

On Mauni Amavasya, one of the three shahi snan days and among the six key bathing days in the course of the Mela, the akharas in general and the Nagas in particular remained a privileged lot.

Their arrival at the Sangam was marked by a formal reception with marigold garlands and showering of flower petals by local Mela authorities, who leave no stone unturned in the traditional rituals, lest the hierarchy-conscious and highly egotistic religious congregations take offence.

"We must keep them in good humour; they are highly temperamental people," remarked a senior Mela official, who admitted that the Nagas were a law unto themselves.

No wonder then that when some of the akharas resented the presence of inquisitive photojournalists, the police promptly forced the shutterbugs to look the other way.

The Mahanirvani was followed by the Niranjani Akhara. Then came the 5000-strong contingent of Nagas under the banner of the Juna Akhara to literally swarm the Sangam bank that was dutifully cleared for their exclusive use.

Renouncing worldly pleasures is the essence of the Naga philosophy, which is why they do not use any cloth to cover their ash-smeared bodies. Interestingly, this custom was adhered to even after their dip in the Sangam. After splashing in the cold waters of the Ganga like little children, the Nagas smeared their wet bodies with the river sand. Wiping themselves dry apparently does not figure in their scheme of things.

To prevent any kind of pollution of the holy river, the sadhus made it a point to urinate on the straw-covered sandy beach along the Sangam before entering the waters. "How can we even think of leaving any dirt in the river that we worship?" said Vishwanath Giri, a young Naga.

Along with the freedom they enjoy, the Nagas obey strict regimentation within their order. "To ensure discipline we have our kotwal [police], while our procession is regulated by our own guards who carry red and green flags to give the signal for stopping or moving," Giri added.

Significantly, all those belonging to an akhara do not necessarily stay in the same place, but when it comes to special occasions like the Kumbh, they converge under one roof to follow the prescriptions laid down by their chiefs with strict devotion and commitment.

The next special occasion when they will be seen together publicly is Basant Panchami on January 29, the last shahi snan of the current Maha Kumbh Mela.

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