Umrao Jaan: Aishwarya Rai
"The song Jhoote Ilzaam depicts her anguish and anger, so a deep shade of burgundy was used. It is a jewelled outfit with diamond stones in brick-style embroidery. There is a golden patti, Lucknowi artwork in enamel in sapphire blue and emerald green. Aishwarya's jewellery has been made in silver, coated with gold.
It is not clear if Umrao really existed or was a pigment of [Urdu novelist, Mirza Mohammed Haadi] Ruswa's imagination. As no research was available on her, we have treated it as an art form. JP Dutta had asked for specific colours. We specially created some colours and a lot of textures, that were then treated, twisted and crushed for surface treatment. I followed Aishwarya's personality, the character she played, and the director's brief."
Don't miss: The Umrao Jaan special section