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We bring you a second excerpt that provides advice on makeup application from the book 'Beauty Unleashed' by Dr Dinyar Workingboxwalla ( lightly, making sure the brow begins on the same parallel line as the inner eye corner and fades out gradually over the outer eye corner. Boost scanty brows with light feather strokes of an eyebrow pencil. Then, using a brow brush, blend in the lines. Please click NEXT to keep reading... Excerpted from Beauty Unleashed: A Comprehensive Guide to the Perfect Skin and Hair (Rs 295) by Dr Dinyar Workingboxwalla, with the permission of publishers Westland Ltd.
Prepare skin with a cleanse/tone/moisturize ritual
Makeup base
Pressed powder
Eye makeup
Lip colour
Lastly, cheek colour to balance your lip colour
Eyes
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- Build up the lash effect by first applying mascara, waiting for it to dry, then powdering the lash tips and applying mascara again.
- If lashes are light, emphasize them by having them dyed. There are now special dye services for eyebrows and eyelashes in salons abroad which will catch on soon here. Eyelashes and brow dyes are totally different in their manufacturing processes. Alternatively, use permanent false eyelash extensions done by a good therapist.
- For the smudged, sexy look, the eye is shaded first with a pencil in brown, grey or navy, and then softened with a cotton tip. A beige powder shadow is then blended over the eye.
- Quickly transform a day look into an evening look by using gold or silver eye shadow.
- Try a brown eye shadow regardless of the colour of your eyes or skin tone. It is a universally complementary shade.
- To make lashes look longer and eyes larger, separate lashes with an eyelash comb after you apply mascara.
- Always keep brows a shade or two lighter than your hair colour.
- Line the lower eye rim with a soft navy blue pencil, it intensifies eye colour and makes the white of the eye look whiter.
- Shade only the outer half of the eyelid and leave the inner corners bare; the look suits just about every eye shape.
- After you have all your eye makeup on, lightly brush the entire lid area with a pale pink frost blusher. This gives a nice warm glow to your face.
- Spectacles will hide your eyes, so they must have a dramatic effect from behind the lenses. In order to do that, they must be completely contoured with colour. Use eye shadow and pencil generously. Mascara, too, should be used abundantly on both upper and lower lashes. Eyeliner can be used on the top lids and a pencil inside the lower lids.
- To cover up age-revealing lines and shadows under the eyes, use a makeup base two shades lighter than the colour of your skin, diluted with a bit of moisturizer. Smooth on gently. I find this better than using concealing creams and sticks which often form a deep crease when you smile.
Mouth
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- Add fullness to thin lips with a lighter lipstick or clear gloss. I like to correct the mouth shape with pencil only when the lip line is uneven.
- For a soft and luscious daytime look, mix two complementary lipstick hues, one from the orange family and the other in a red shade. Apply carefully to lips with a brush and smooth lip gloss on bottom lip only.
- Transform a day look into a dramatic evening look in a minute with the application of a lip pencil. Then, mix red, brown and nude lipstick on a brush and apply over the lips. Dab highlighter powder on the centre of the bottom lip for a great, long-lasting shine. Dust the same highlighter powder over cheekbones and brow-bones to add further shimmer; this looks super with a tan.
- For a seductive yet soft mouth, define the lip-line with an auburn or light brown pencil. Then fill in with clear or tinted gloss.
- To prevent lipstick from forming vertical lines around the mouth, apply liquid foundation with a sponge on the lips. Before putting on lipstick, blot the lips with a tissue, powder lightly, than use a lip pencil around the natural contours of your lips. Then apply the lipstick.
Other tips
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Don’t try to conceal zits with concealer
Most concealers are too thin to camouflage a blemish. Also, because it is only one shade lighter than your skin, it actually highlights the spot. Instead, dot the spot with a blemish cream with salicylic acid or a stick foundation that matches the skin exactly. Pat, don’t rub, the area with a finger and set it with loose powder.
Lip liner after, not before, lipstick
That way you can look at your lips and see where you need to downplay or highlight. To avoid that old-fashioned ring around the lip line, use lip pencils that match your lipstick and draw a very subtle line around the lips.
Do not use waterproof mascara
It’s very difficult to remove even with eye makeup remover and can irritate your eyes, causing redness and puffiness.
Avoid creamy foundations
If you have oily, acne-prone skin, avoid cream foundations as they are heavy and can clog your pores.
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