Why Rishikesh Is Simply Glorious!

Why Rishikesh calls you again and again.

IMAGE: The mural of Lord Shiva near the parking lot. Photographs: Archana Masih/Rediff

Dehradun is one of the rare airports that still uses the old world signage 'hawai adda' on the gleaming modern terminal building. As you drive out of the airport, past a 'Welcome to Uttarakhand' giant gate, one is surprised to realise that Rishikesh is closer to the hawai adda than Dehradun city itself.

On a visit to the city early this month, one was surprised to find that only one of the 10-12 shops selling food/ beverage at the airport was operational. Since all the eateries were run by one vendor, the shops lay vacant because the said vendor had failed to pay his dues to the airport.

So pack your paratha, aloo sabzi, laddoo while flying out and make sure to buy the famous rusks at Ellora's on Rajpur Road because the shelves at their outlet at the airport lie bare.

IMAGE: Janaki Jhula across the Ganga.

Rishikesh is an alluring and bustling spiritual city where the waters of the Ganga flow pristine and clean. One can sit by the blue-green waters and watch a captivating microcosm of India which is drawn to its banks.

Just under the Janaki Jhula in Muni ki Reti, the wide promenade with benches and long steps serves as a resting spot for pilgrims, tourists, seekers, yoga and adventure enthusiasts.

IMAGE: Wired yoga poses reduced to dustbins on the promenade.

The wire cut-out images of yoga poses on the promenande stand opposite golgappa, chana zor garam and fruits walas. The cut-out yoga images sadly have been reduced to dustbins, stuffed with plastic bottles and sundry discards.

IMAGE: Plastic jars in varying sizes for sale to collect Ganga Jal.

A few steps ahead, an assortment of orange plastic jars in various sizes -- going down to the tiniest pocket-size bottle -- were being sold at the riverbank. Those who wished to fill Ganga jal from the river could buy a jar, walk to the river's edge, fill it and take the holy water back to the different corners of the country they came from.

IMAGE: A vendor selling colourful fruits.

A family from Gujarat sat around deciding which ones to buy. Like in most families, the youngest was tasked to fill the bottles.

Meanwhile, a large group of pilgrims from Maharashtra were being led by a tour leader on to Janaki Jhula. Their chatter in Marathi interspersed with loud chants of Jai Shri Ram as they crossed the bridge.

IMAGE: A beautiful view of the Ganga.

A short walk leads to the other side of the bank where the ghat opposite Vanasprath Ashram is a nice spot to take a dip in the Ganga.

IMAGE: A mural at a Ganga aarti spot.

Navigating the narrow roads of Rishikesh is a challenge. Four wheelers with rafts tied to the roof brush past as they make way to the river rafting points of entry.

Yoga and meditation studios abound, along with hotels cafes including the 60s Cafe dedicated to the Beatles who spent a few weeks in 1968 at the Maharishi Mahesh Ashram across the Janaki Jhula.

IMAGE: Another view of the Ganga.

The 'Beatles Ashram' is a hop, skip away. Even if you are not a John, Paul, George, Ringo fan, it makes for a fascinating walk.

An even narrower downhill road, off the main road took us to Aloha On The Ganges. A quick scan of the Internet showed it had an interesting restaurant which was worth checking out for a late lunch.

The restaurant located with a view of the Ganga was staffed with excellent staff and good vegetarian food.

The golgappas served elegantly did not have the zing, but the rest of the local pahadi thalis were uniquely plated and delicious.

Roasted makhana in small mason jars were complimentary starters, and local jaggery served as warm enders to a great meal.

IMAGE: Golgappas served elegantly at Aloha On The Ganges.

Rishikesh's enduring charm lies in the Ganga. The living river that flows so gloriously -- gurgling rhythmically, shimmering under the slanting rays of the sun.

The Ganga is the heart and soul of the town. It draws people from across cultures to its banks. It means different things to different people. It is comforter, saviour, liberator and it calls you back again and again.

IMAGE: Golgappas!

I had returned to Rishikesh after seven years and have been there 4-5 times previously. The last time I had to cut-short my holiday with my dearest friend after fracturing my ankle on a trek which needed surgery in Mumbai.

I had spent several hours lying in a bed in a village home waiting for the ambulance. The house belonged to a widow whose sons served in the Indian Army.