A weekend in the beautiful sleepy town of Mukteshwar is just what you need to bust your stress, says Suchismita Banerjee.
Photograph: Sanjay Ghosh/Creative Commons
The picturesque town of Mukteshwar is a pristine getaway nestled in the lap of the Kumaon Himalayas. Located in Nainital district (Uttarakhand), it sits at an elevation of about 7500 feet. Being at this advantageous height Mukteshwar is never really warm. The summer temperature reaches a maximum of 27oC. However, in winter the mercury drops considerably causing heavy snowfall.
We visited Mukteshwar in late summer. The weather was perfect and the trees brimming with flowers and fruit were a treat to our senses.
We checked in at the government Tourist Rest House. It is a highly recommended option because it is pocket-friendly and offers a fantastic view of the sunset because of its strategic location. However, because of its continuous rush for bookings, it is advisable to book in advance.
Otherwise, accommodations of the likes of Cottage Nirvana, Mukteshwar Himalayan Resort, Green Oak Resort, Krishna Orchard etc. also provide a comfortable stay.
Photograph: Rediff Archives
Our first evening was spent enjoying the spectacular sunset from the comfort of our balcony.
Wrapped in a light shawl I watched mesmerised as the golden ball of fire dipped below the conifer and deodar lined horizon, splashing the sky with its golden red aura. And then suddenly there was darkness and
a sharp fall in temperature. As if on cue the crickets took over. Their orchestra continued for the rest of the night.
Unlike other bustling hill stations there were no ‘dining-out’ options. Dinner was homely food served buffet style. Post dinner we walked up and down the steep road to the guest house to burn some calories.
Photograph: Suchismita Banerjee
The best thing about waking up on a hill station holiday such as this one is the twitter of birds instead of the irritating ring of the alarm clock.
If you are an early bird you will be treated to a lovely sunrise from the cute little garden on the other side of the bungalow. A roughly cut stairway provides a short cut to the garden from the guest room.
The garden was perfectly manicured, with colourful flowering plants grouped very tastefully. A variety of species of small birds of various colours were busy flocking around.
The sight that greets you from this vantage point is spectacular -- layers and layers of green mountains.
Thankfully the slopes have not yet been deforested and the view of the morning rays over the mountain range in many shades of green was a mesmerising one.
The azure sky above and the heady scent of blooming flowers and fruit trees makes you fall in love with the place. I must confess this place worked like a stress buster for me.
Photograph: Suchismita Banerjee
Those interested in sightseeing, can plan a visit to Mukteshwar Temple and Chauli ki Jali.
Mukteshwar temple, located within the Indian Veterinary Research Institute’s campus is about 350 years old and dedicated to Lord Shiva.
The forest area near this place is a haven for birds with a list of species like barbets, woodpeckers and thrush.
Chauli ki Jali has rock formations that jut out at extraordinary angles over the steep cliff. It is a popular tourist spot and shutterbugs busy climbing the rock projections trying to hold themselves in position for
that perfect shot is a common sight.
The high footfall has also encouraged activities like arrow shooting and valley crossing which is traversing from one mountain ridge to another one below tied to a cable of sorts. Rappelling is also an option if you
are trained and adventurous enough.
Here I must state a personal experience.
Image: Valley crossing in Mukteshwar Photograph: Suchismita Banerjee
I opted for valley crossing. After much bargaining the cost was fixed at Rs 500. There were two men conducting the activity. One straddled me in an indigenous but trustworthy gear. He put a helmet over my
head, and pushed me forward with the invaluable advice of Rassi ko pakde rehna [Hold on to the rope].
The other guy was at the other end of the cable. Though the ride is not long but it offers an amazing view of the green forested valley while sliding to the other end.
The awesomest sight was that of a solitary eagle that was actually flying below me!
The vast green stretch reminded me of Jim Corbett’s Man-Eaters of Kumaon. It must have been these dense slopes of Mukteshwar where the magnificent beast roamed before meeting with its fate.
After this thrilling experience I had to climb back to where the hub of activities is. It is here that I spotted a uniquely beautiful lattice of rock. On enquiry the man at the other end of the cable informed (with a
voice dripping in reverence) that it is a sacred place and it is believed that if a childless woman touches the Jali, she is blessed with a child.
I moved on after gathering this piece of interesting information, thanking him graciously and climbed up the steep slopes full of exhilaration.
Image: A scaly-bellied woodpecker Photograph: Mvshreeram/Creative Commons
This beautiful sleepy town does not have much excitement to offer. However, if you are planning to escape for an idyllic weekend where the silence is broken by the rustle of the deodar, where you wake up to
the call of the thrush to view a magnificent sunrise while sipping a steaming hot cup of cinnamon tea, then this somnolent getaway is tailor made for you.
How to get there
Kathgodam, about 56 km away, is the nearest railway station. You can hire a cab from the railway station. You can also request your hotel to provide a station pick up and drop service.
If you are planning to fly, then Pantnagar (100 km away from Mukteshwar) is the nearest airport. Air India operates an afternoon flight from Delhi and it takes about an hour to reach your destination. The
airport has facilities of pre-paid taxis.
Mukteshwar is also well connected by road. Neighbouring cities are connected by state government run buses. Luxury coaches also ply from Delhi to Kathgodam, from where you can hire a taxi.
