IMAGE: Country craft venturing into the riverine wilderness of Trang An. All photographs: Mayur Sanap/Rediff
I like my travels when no two days are identical.
Vietnam, with its dynamic and immensely varied geographical features and its many hop-till-you-drop exciting experiences, offered just that.
I went there last year and every time I hear of someone else travelling to Vietnam since, I feel like re-visiting the country.
Whether it is the historical charm of Ho Chi Minh City in south Vietnam, or the laid-back, sophisticated appeal of Da Nang in central Vietnam or the old-world character of Hanoi in north Vietnam, each region has n-number of tourist haunts as well as hidden gems that make for such a memorable holiday.
Of all the beautiful memories of my Vietnam visit in the autumn of 2024, the one that my mind keeps wandering back to is the lazy boat ride around the gorgeous riverside town named Ninh Binh.
Charming Ninh Binh has a quiet allure, which is a welcome contrast to the bustling metropolis of Hanoi. A drive of a couple of hours out of Hanoi brings you to Ninh Binh, and most tourists usually prefer it as one-day excursion from Hanoi.
The best way to take in all the places around Ninh Binh is to opt for a serene boat ride on the tranquil Trang An river, a UNESCO World Heritage sight of Vietnam, that gives you a chance to experience the beauty of its lush vegetation, mesmerising waterways, limestone cliffs, caves, temples and shrines along the way. It offers a unique perspective of Vietnam's countryside.
IMAGE: The traditional sampan boats are stationed on the opposite bank from the Ninh Binh booking office and they come with a rower-cum-guide for the boating journey.
IMAGE: Each boat can accommodate five people, including the rower seats at the tail of a boat. Boats are equipped with umbrellas to protect you from the harsh sun or light showers. The bright orange life vests can be an eyesore, but wearing one is mandatory on the boat ride.
IMAGE: There are three routes for the boat tour that introduces you to Trang An province. You are assigned a boat on the basis of the route you choose. All three routes are similar in terms of landscape, with only a different set of caves and temples. Ours was route 3, which rowed through the longest cave in Trang An, Dot Cave, spanning 1 km!
IMAGE:The cave was pretty narrow and taking photos a task. You have to also save your head from bumping against the ceiling. But it adds to the fun! It's fairly dark inside, but there are light bulbs strewn around enabling you to enjoy the striking rock formations.
IMAGE: Once you are through the cave, the towering limestone karst peaks on the other side welcome you and there are spectacular views of the hinterland.
IMAGE: The landscape of limestone karsts and winding water is reminiscent of the Halong Bay, Vietnam's famed tourist magnet and the reason why Trang An is known as Halong Bay on Land.
IMAGE: These giant rocks served as thrilling backdrop for Tom Hiddleston and Brie Larson's jungle adventure in the Hollywood blockbuster Kong: The Skull Island. You needn't worry that you might miss out on seeing the exact location -- your ferryman will excitedly whoop, 'Kong Kong', as you pass by.
IMAGE: The tour includes stops at several temples and pagodas nestled within the river complex. You enter into the vicinity of these structures by stone bridges.
IMAGE: This was the Trinh Temple, located at base of Ngu Nhac mountain and surrounded by lush greenery.
IMAGE: Visiting these temples afford a peek into the country's cultural heritage. They boast beautiful ancient architecture made of carved wooden panels and grey stone columns that are full of beauty.
IMAGE: You can spend hours admiring the architectural and natural wonders around here. The canopies of the surrounding trees offer natural shade.
IMAGE: Inside a sacred shrine dedicated to a deity.
IMAGE: Within the temple's vicinity there was a lotus pond and a wooden walkway to cut across, that made for picturesque setting against the background of limestone rocks. The flowers blossom a bright pink during the summer we were told.
IMAGE: The ferrymen wait patiently on the shore when you step out to explore. Each boat has an unique number and you are expected to memorise it for the ease of getting back to your boat. Don't get lost!
IMAGE: The most iconic landmark of the Trang An complex is the Suoi Tien temple aka the floating pagoda.
IMAGE: Here's Ms Bian, the superwoman who took us through all the beautiful sights during the 3-hour plus excursion. She has been doing this for more than 10 years. All the boatmen wear the heat-beating jackets that comes with built-in fans that help them combat humidity and heat.
IMAGE: No eatables and beverages (except water) are allowed on the boat ride. There are vending machines placed near the temple complex to buy snacks, juice or water bottles. You are expected to dispose of the trash right there, before continuing the journey.
IMAGE: Once the boat tour is over, there is the nearby attraction of Mua Caves, a double deal for your visit to Trang An. A hike of 500 steps up and you are at a point that provides gorgeous vistas of the surrounding valley.
IMAGE: The physical challenge is worth it for the incredible panorama from the top.
IMAGE: The gorgeous sunset against the limestone rocks was truly memorable. The climb also offers good exercise for legs that were idle during the boat ride.
IMAGE: The post sunset hours is when the food scene in Ninh Binh comes truly alive. Family meals are a central part of the Vietnamese culture.
IMAGE: My favorite find was Bun Cha, a meat-based assortment that has grilled pork dunked in a sweet and savoury soup, served alongside rice noodles, fresh herbs and condiments. A delicious end to an eventful day.
Rookie mistakes to avoid:
- The beauty of Ninh Binh deserves a slow wander and not a rushed afternoon. Aim to spend at least one night, instead of taking a day tour from Hanoi.
- It is best to enjoy the boat ride in the morning when it is relatively less crowded. The booking counter opens at 7 in the morning.
- There's no need to book the boat tour beforehand. The tickets are easy to get, with fast-moving queues at the booking counter. Also, at-the-counter tickets come at a slightly cheaper price.
- Getting around Ninh Binh can be expensive. You can either opt for group tour to save costs. Or rental bikes and bicycles are easily available too.
- Carry clothes according to the weather. Apply plenty of sunscreen to protect yourself from the strong sun. Keep a light jacket handy in case it turns cold. Inside the caves especially it can be cold.
- Wear comfortable shoes with good grip for easy walking; especially important for the Mua Caves hike.
- The tipping culture is not aggressive in Vietnam, but a tip is always appreciated. Take that into consideration after the end of your boat ride. The ferrymen/women work really hard!
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