Harnoor Channi-Tiwary wants you to visit the Hampi of Central India.
If you are fascinated by history and architecture and if you like walking down paths untrodden, Madhya Pradesh is filled with jewels just waiting to be discovered.
Whether it is the chattris of Orchha, the temples of Khajuraho, tiger spotting at Kanha or the picturesque waters of Bhedaghat, there is something for everyone here.
Mandu is one such place that may not have found its way into your travel list yet, but it really should.
Often called Hampi of Central India, the small town is all about palaces and forts, most in ruins, all under-commercialised.
The beauty of our vast country lies in these small unexplored towns, not yet popular on the tourist circuit.
As Mandu does not fall on the rail network, one can take a train to Indore or Ratlam and drive down from there.
The journey from Indore took us two hours as we crossed lush green fields and admired hills with windmills.
And before we knew it, we were entering Mandu.
Almost a throw-back in time of sorts, the road leading into town meanders through the fort walls and remnants of the gates erected to commemorate dignitaries.
It is easy to imagine Mandu in its glory days, with an imposing wall surrounding the town, and no less than 12 gateways, each with a significance of its own. If you’re on a short trip and can only visit one site, I suggest you check out Jahaz Mahal.
Named so as it resembles a ship, the palace stands tall between two artificial lakes.
Make sure you hire a knowledgeable guide (plenty are available at the ticketing office) and soak in the history lesson you are about to receive.
The Jahaz Mahal was built by Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din-Khilji and it infamously served as his harem as well as pleasure palace.
Another interesting structure within the Royal Palace Complex is the Hindola Mahal. The palace is named so due to its unique sloping walls reminding one of Greek and Egyptian architecture.
It is rumoured that the main architect of Taj Mahal was sent to have a look at Hoshang Shah’s tomb for inspiration.
It is easy to believe the veracity of that claim as the white marble tomb stands on a raised platform and has intricate marble lattice work.
The strange part, though, is that the tomb has graves sites marked out for Hoshang Shah’s entire family but none of them were actually buried here.
The Jama Masjid next door is yet another interesting stop you must make.
The simplicity of the structure, multiple domes and arched corridors make it a unique mosque.
It is said to be one of the five largest mosques in the country.
If legends are to be believed, Baz Bahadur built a large sandstone palace for his love interest Rani Roopmati.
She enjoyed views of the Narmada (without the sight of which she supposedly wouldn’t eat a morsel of food) as well as the palace of her lover.
The best hotel in town is MPTDC’s Malwa Resort, which offers comfortable cottages around a lake.
With no food options nearby, this is also the ideal place you should be having your meals.
Mandu overflows with history and tales of times gone by.
Love stories, tales of war and strife, all of these and more make it a destination worth visiting.
Do not expect great modern comforts here, the beauty of the town lies in the fact that time seems to stand still.
If you can reset your expectations and allow yourself to imagine the town in its glory days, you are in for a treat.
Whether or not this is Hampi of Central India or not, this surely is one of the hidden jewels of this incredible country.
Photographs: Harnoor Channi-Tiwary
