Ralph Lauren Faces Heat Over Bandhani Skirt

'It is disappointing that a craft, which is protected by the Geographical Indication Tag, Polo Ralph Lauren has turned it into a cheap wrap skirt, that too, printed.'

American luxury fashion brand Ralph Lauren has come under fire after introducing a new Bandhani-style cotton skirt, without crediting India.

Ralph Lauren Bandhani Row

The Print Cotton Wrap Skirt, priced at Rs 44,800, is described as a 'beautifully draped cotton skirt, printed with a vibrant design inspired by traditional Bandhini tie-dye techniques and motifs.

'Its true wrap silhouette features a tied waist and a cascading angled hem for effortless movement with every step'.

Bandhani is a traditional tie-dye technique, originating from Gujarat, and dates back to the Indus Valley civilisation.

The craft has deep cultural significance and is worn during cultural events, weddings, and festivals.

Gujarat, India, however, does not find any mention on the brand's web site.

GI Tag Cultural Debate

"It is disappointing that a craft, which is protected by the Geographical Indication (GI) Tag, Polo Ralph Lauren has turned it into a cheap wrap skirt, that too, printed," said Sunil Sethi, chairman, Fashion Design Council of India.

"They have mentioned the name of the craft, but it is not enough," Sethi added.

Prada Kolhapuri Controversy

This is not the first time that a global fashion house has not recognised the Indian roots of products that debut on their runways.

Last year, Italian fashion house Prada introduced footwear resembling Kolhapuri chappals as part of its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, during the Milan Fashion Week.

The sandals, priced at around Rs 1 lakh, drew criticism for not crediting India as the source of inspiration.

Global Fashion Cultural Appropriation

But these are not the only cases.

Last year, the 'Scandinavian scarf' -- flowy fabric draped delicately over the shoulders -- reminiscent of the Indian dupatta or aanchal, blew up on social media, drawing flak from several Indian social media users for not crediting the country.

"Global luxury brands are often naïve about India and live in a bubble. They still think of Milan, Paris, New York as the fashion cities, forgetting that the best heritage came from India, China, Persia," Tikka Shatrujit Singh, chairman and founder of luxury consultancy firm JMC, and the man behind the introduction of Parisian luxury brand Louis Vuitton in India told Business Standard.

After facing backlash, a four-member team from Prada visited Kolhapur in Maharashtra to study the craft of making Kolhapuri chappals.

"The ignorance is also reflective of the lack of knowledge and senior leadership. Brands need to realise that the world has changed and that clients would be willing to pay a higher premium for the stories that such pieces carry," Singh added.

Later in the year, Prada signed a memorandum of understanding with Lidcom (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation), and Lidkar (Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation) -- the two government bodies that safeguard, promote, and develop the Indian leather industry and the heritage of Kolhapuri chappals.

'The agreement sets out the framework, implementation, and guidance of the 'Prada Made in India x Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals' project, which will celebrate Indian craftsmanship through a limited-edition collection of sandals,' Prada stated in a release.

Some fashion houses, however, have the spotlight on India.

French luxury brand Dior showcased its Fall 2023 collection at the Gateway of India in Mumbai -- its first in the country, putting the artisans from The Chanakya School of Craft at the centre stage of global luxury.

Feature Presentation: Ashish Narsale/Rediff