From Russia With Love

Red Square and VDNKh easily rank among the most striking places I've visited -- both for their historical significance and architectural splendour.
My admiration for Russian culture, vision and ambition grew with every step as I clocked the miles, Nitin Sathe tells us after a visit to Moscow and St Petersburg.

The plan just happened during a discussion.

As the news spread amongst friends and friends of friends, we became a largish but manageable group of 9 for the trip.

An ideal number would have been 6-7, so said Wani, our chief organiser.

"We can order a mini-van and be comfortable roaming around all together," he had said.

Wani had been the defence attaché in Moscow for three years and this trip for him was like homecoming.

He and his wife, Shruti had some remarkable and amazing stories of Russia and the Russian people to tell us before and during the entire trip of 10 odd days.

For them it was revival of memories and meeting old friends besides, of course, taking our group around Moscow and St Petersburg, the only two places we visited on our stay in this country.

Flights

We chose to go via the Middle East which offered decent fares ex-Mumbai with many airline options.

The cost of a return ticket per head worked out to about Rs 60,000.

There were choices to travel via Delhi direct to Moscow, but that was expensive, forcing us to search for cheaper options.

Money Matters

Before heading to Russia, we were warned -- don't rely on your credit cards! Most of them wouldn't work there, so cash was king.

With that in mind, we made sure to carry enough rubles for our meals and little adventures.

The good news was that the ruble and rupee were almost neck and neck (hovering between 1.05 to 1.15 INR per ruble), which made conversions easy on the mind if not always on the pocket.

We exchanged a decent number of rubles before flying out and tucked away some dollar bills for later conversions.

The dollar-to-ruble rate was a bit of a rollercoaster, but we managed to snag some decent deals -- around 73 to 78 rubles to the dollar -- just by keeping track of the market on our mobiles and looking out for the rates displayed outside banks.

To save time at popular attractions, we were advised to buy museum and park tickets online in India itself, which we did -- paid for conveniently in rupees.

It did help skip some queues, but at a few places, we had to get the QR codes re-scanned to generate physical entry passes. A bit of a roundabout, that.

Also, to our surprise, some online tickets turned out pricier than what was being sold at the counters on site.

Park Pobedy Metro Station

Fitness and travel

Be prepared to walk a lot when visiting Russia -- most tourist attractions are best explored on foot.

Like us, you can expect to cover around 12 to 15 kilometres each day.

While all that walking helped us stay in shape, it also gave us a chance to soak in the sights, sounds and nuances of local life that we might have missed otherwise.

From walking to and from metro stations, navigating the vast underground labyrinths, to wandering through museums, sprawling parks and shopping centers -- it can get tiring.

Carry some pain-relief sprays, creams, or tried-and-tested home remedies to stay comfortable and fit throughout your trip.

Fountain

To find your way around and navigate easily in Russia, the 'Yandex' Maps and travel app is your best bet.

It gave us step-by-step directions whether we were using public transport or just sightseeing and was incredibly accurate.

What impressed us most was how detailed it was. It even told us exactly where to stand on the metro platform to board a less crowded coach!

Amongst all the means available, we found the Metro to be the best option to travel in St Petersburg as well as Moscow; the only negative part was that we were underground most of the time and missed seeing the sights.

The tram and bus are other options, but one can get caught in ugly traffic snarls and waste time -- we traveled overground only for an experience.

Inter-city trains

We decided on going by the superfast Sapsan train to St Petersburg -- a ride of 650 km completed in 4 hours.

On the return we chose a double decker as lower train which took an hour extra but was fun.

This train had a first-floor dining car restaurant in one of the carriages and just for the experience, we downed a drink and snack there, chatting and enjoying the scenery pass by.

Survival Tips

If you're planning to brave Russian public transportand you absolutely should -- taxis are expensive and may not get you to places on time -- the underground is much efficient and cheap!

You may require using a taxi for your travel to and from the airports since lugging your bags around may pose a problem; make sure you cater for heavy traffic conditions.

For local travel, I would strongly recommend purchase of a Metro card.

It is easy to use, kind to your wallet, and refillable at machines that do not speak English -- the instructions on the card machine are in Russian and the people behind ticket windows also speak the same language!

But locals are forthcoming to assist, and sign language also helps!

A Metro ride costs just 67 rubles from anywhere to anywhere -- practically a steal!

Now, here's where we got a bit too clever; we thought, "Why buy one card per person when we can swipe the same one multiple times?" Genius, right? Wrong.

The Metro let us through like royalty -- one card, five swipes, no problem. But when we tried the same trick on a bus, it politely said, "Nyet."

That's when a lovely Russian lady swooped in and paid for our tickets with her debit card. Heroes don't always wear capes; sometimes they just have contactless payments.

On trams, we got wiser -- or so we thought. The conductor told us you can use the same card for multiple people, but only if you wait about two minutes between swipes. So, we spent the ride timing our beeps like mission control.

Pro tip: Just get a card for each person. It's simpler, saves time, and prevents your family from glaring at you like you've committed international fraud.

Now, onto long-distance trains -- the real adventure.

First rule: Get to the station early. Not Indian Railways five minutes early.

Russian Railways means passport checks, baggage scans, and no nonsense. Miss it, and you're waving goodbye to the train -- and your vacation plan.

Second, bring along some snacks and water -- on board catering may not suit your guts or pockets.

While the scenery is stunning (think endless green fields), hunger has no respect for beauty.

Also, carry something to read -- unless you're fluent in Russian, the magazines on board will look like ancient hieroglyphics.

A few bonus tips for staying happy and dry:

• Always carry your passport -- even if you're just stepping out to buy ice cream. You never know who might ask for ID.
• Check the weather forecast -- it's surprisingly accurate, and much more reliable than your gut feeling.
• Pack a raincoat or umbrella, and an extra sweater or scarf. Russian evenings can go from balmy to brrrr in no time.

What and where to eat

Our package with our hotel included breakfast and dinner which just worked out perfect.

We could go out touring post a heavy breakfast (accompanied with xhampagne for the brave!), have a late noon snack and get back to the hotel for an early dinner which was laid out at 1800 hours.

Simple no nonsense menu with wine, juices and beer on the house; and one could end with a cup of coffee before stepping out again for the night sojourn. Worked perfectly.

If one landed up at any time back at the hotel, chips, water and some fruits were always available for the taking in the hotel lobby.

Pro tip: Work out a decent deal when you speak to the hotel.

A four-star hotel will cost you around 4,000 to 6000 rubles a night and we chose one close to a metro station for obvious reasons.

Hotel breakfast was standard -- not particularly exciting, but it did the job. For the kind of hotel we had booked, it was perfectly adequate, so no real complaints on that front.

That said, our taste buds weren't exactly thrilled -- the food leaned heavily towards the bland side, leaving us longing for a bit more spice and flavour.

Eating out in Russia could burn a hole in your pocket if you do not do your homework before setting out to eat at the numerous pubs and restaurants.

If on a shoestring budget, try the numerous small eateries near the railway/metro stations which appeared to serve standard fare bakery stuff, ice-creams and sandwiches etc.

We were told that there are a few Indian restaurants around Moscow and St Petersburg, but we thought it better to try local cuisine rather than look for expensive daal-roti on foreign soil.

The best places to eat in Russia for an Indian palate are the numerous Georgian restaurants that serve excellent food at not so pricey prices.

Staples like khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), khinkali (juicy meat dumplings), and lobio (spiced red beans) are commonly found on the menu.

Grilled meats such as Shashlik (skewered lamb or pork), Chkmeruli (garlic chicken in milk sauce), and Badrijani (eggplant rolls with walnut paste) were our favourites.

Meals are often accompanied by fresh-baked bread from clay ovens and a variety of fresh herbs and salads. We also loved the brilliant pizzas that were on offer.

Besides some international fast food chain outlets, one could try the Russian equivalent of McDonalds where the fare is like the American brand.

Shopping can be fun in Russia. Moscow leans slightly on the upscale while St Petersburg offers a more artistic flair.

Carry extra cash if you want to pick up some nice pottery and little trinkets to give friends and family. More about this later.

Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad (as St Petersburg was known during Soviet Russia times)

What to see

Our visit was restricted to only Moscow and St Petersburg; and these two cities are good enough to give you an idea of Russian history, culture and modernity.

In any case, the country is so large (everything about the country is!) that even if you have deep pockets, you may not have the time to go everywhere.

As Wani joked with us, "In case you want to see Siberia or the deep and dark recesses of Russia, try getting arrested, they will send you there free of cost!"

Moscow, the capital of Russia, is a vibrant metropolis that offers visitors a unique glimpse into both the grandeur of imperial Russia and the austere beauty of the Soviet era.

For tourists, Moscow is a treasure trove of architectural wonders, historic landmarks and cultural experiences. Please choose where you want to go depending on what you are interested in.

First and foremost, the underground grandeur of Moscow's metro system is a spectacle in itself; its ornate designs, glittering chandeliers, intricate mosaics, and statues. Each station is uniquely decorated, offering a perfect photo opportunity.

Adding to the charm are solo musicians whose melodies echo hauntingly through the maze of tunnels, bringing the underground to life.

Moscow

While in Moscow, one can't and mustn't miss the Red Square and the Kremlin.

The visit must be repeated by night to see some spectacular lighting of these monuments.

This iconic public square is teeming with people whatever time you choose to visit it.

The colourful and intriguing onion domes of St Basil's Cathedral is a masterpiece not to be missed.

The Kremlin is where President Vladimir Putin works and lives, and we hoped we would be lucky to get a glimpse of one of the most powerful men in the world.

The entire complex has palaces, cathedrals and so much more; and with time at a premium, it may not be possible to see everything in detail.

Pushkin State Museum

Monument to the Heroes of the First World War

For those interested in history, it would be worthwhile to visit the State Historical Museum which is very large. My advice would be to study the information brochure and map beforehand and visit only the sections that interest you.

The museum offers deep insights into Russia's past, from ancient artifacts to items from the imperial and Soviet era.

Lenin's Mausoleum located here has the embalmed body of Vladimir Lenin, entry to which, unfortunately, has been stopped.

Nearby is the grand GUM departmental store where one can find luxury brands you would have just heard of.

To truly soak in the spirit of Moscow, head to Sparrow Hills at night for a breathtaking panoramic views of the city skyline and the majestic Moscow State University, glowing like a beacon.

Don't miss the thrill on the roads which happens generally at nights, we were told. Leather-clad bikers astride roaring machines perform gravity-defying stunts, their squealing tires and thunderous engines loud enough to wake the dead.

Not to be outdone, their friends in high-powered cars match them in both speed and spectacle.

Another must-visi' in Moscow is VDNKh -- short for Vystavka Dostizheniy Narodnogo Khozyaystva (Exhibition of Achievements of National Economy).

It's an enormous park, ringed by grand buildings that are masterpieces of Soviet architecture.

Each pavilion represents the culture, art, and people of the various republics that once formed the Soviet Union.

The park is a delightful mix of history and spectacle -- beautiful gardens with cascading fountains, impressive displays of military aircraft old and new, and the star attraction: The Buran, the Soviet answer to the Space Shuttle.

You can spend hours walking around, soaking in both nostalgia and national pride.

Red Square and VDNKh easily rank among the most striking places I've visited -- both for their historical significance and architectural splendour.

My admiration for Russian culture, vision and ambition grew with every step as I clocked the miles.

We also had our hearts set on visiting the iconic Bolshoi Theatre (which literally means 'big' in Russian) to catch a live ballet performance -- after all, what better way to experience Russia's rich cultural legacy?

But a quick look at the ticket prices -- ranging from $300 to $700 for a two-hour show--quickly brought us back to earth.

Bolshoi would have to wait... or may be, enjoyed on television sitting in the bedroom!

Victory Monument

In essence, Moscow is a dynamic buzzing city that blends the old with the new.

It invites tourists to explore its multifaceted identity through its monuments, museums, churches, and cultural spaces, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Russia.

St Petersburg

Often called the Venice of the North', St Petersburg is Russia's cultural capital and one of Europe's most beautiful cities.

Founded by Tsar Peter the Great in 1703, it is a city of grand canals, majestic palaces and historic cathedrals.

We were captivated by its European elegance, imperial heritage and rich artistic traditions.

It may be impossible to see the entire city and area around in the short time that you may visit here, so it is best to study what interests you and choose where you would want to go.

The Hermitage Museum

A must go place and the centerpiece of the city is the State Hermitage Museum, housed in the stunning Winter Palace.

With over three million items in its collection, the Hermitage is one of the largest and oldest museums in the world, featuring works by da Vinci, Rembrandt, Picasso and Russian masters.

In the half day that was spent here, we must have walked miles seeing only a miniscule part of the three million exhibits.

Near the museum, Palace Square offers a glimpse into imperial Russia's grandeur, dominated by the towering Alexander Column and flanked by architectural marvels.

A short walk brings one to St Isaac's Cathedral, an awe-inspiring structure with a massive golden dome and panoramic city views from its colonnade.

Church of the Savior

One should not miss the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, built on the site of Tsar Alexander II's assassination.

Its colorful onion domes and intricate mosaics make it one of the most photographed landmarks in the city.

Cathedral

The city's historic backbone is Nevsky Prospekt, the main avenue lined with shops, restaurants, churches, and historic buildings.

Along its length lies the Kazan Cathedral, reminiscent of Rome's St Peter's Basilica.

St Petersburg is also famous for its imperial palaces.

A must-visit is the Peterhof Palace, often called the Russian Versailles.

Located on the Gulf of Finland, it boasts magnificent fountains, gardens, and gilded halls.

Cold, wet and clammy weather awaited us on the day we visited this beautiful palace by the sea.

Despite the rain and wind chilling us to the bone, our spirits were high enough to enjoy this architectural grandeur.

Another splendid estate is Catherine Palace in nearby Tsarskoye Selo, home to the fabled Amber Room, a world wonder painstakingly restored after World War II.

Palace Bridge

We spent about 2,000 rubles each for a river cruise that set sail just after dark, around 9:30 pm.

As the boat glided along the water, the illuminated palaces, bridges, and embankments cast a magical glow on the city.

With the wind in our faces and a glass of wine in hand, we braved the chill, our cameras working overtime to capture the stunning views.

The real highlight came at midnight -- the raising of the drawbridges.

Along with a flotilla of boats, big and small, we watched in awe as the bridge spans slowly lifted, allowing large vessels to pass through the narrow channel and head into the backwaters to dock.

It's a breathtaking spectacle, made even more surreal by the shimmering reflections and the festive buzz all around.

The dance parties aboard the yachts were hard to miss, with music, laughter, and the clinking of glasses -- wine and vodka flowing freely to double the joy of the experience.

Pro tip: Wear something warm -- the cold wind off the river can sneak under your layers and make things uncomfortable.

Thankfully, the boat staff offered us blankets, which we gladly accepted.

And if it gets too cold, you can always retreat into the cozy indoor cabin, where food and drinks are served -- perfect for enjoying the view through large glass windows, without the shivers.

Also a could visit place is the Peter and Paul Fortress, the city's original citadel, where many Romanovs are buried, including Peter the Great himself.

St Petersburg is a city of romance, history, and artistic excellence.

With its palatial architecture, opulent museums, and serene waterways, it offers visitors a rich and memorable experience that is both deeply Russian and profoundly European.

If you are going to Moscow, do not miss going to St Petersburg.

Our plan was to proceed to St Petersburg after spending the first two days on arrival at Moscow.

After we had toured St Petersburg, we returned to Moscow spending the rest of the days till our departure here.

This was primarily because air tickets from St Petersburg to India were much more expensive as compared to Moscow to Mumbai.

The Russian people are warm but are not very social with tourists, except for those in the markets who must do so to sell their wares.

They go about the city looking busy, with their headphones clinging their ears and their eyes glued to their mobiles.

Despite this electronic distraction, we found that they were forthcoming in providing help when asked for.

On weekends, we did find large groups of families and friends enjoying themselves at the pubs and parks, letting their hair down.

Vodka, beer and wine seemed to be popular, consumed in large quantities.

About Shopping...this is for you ladies!

If retail therapy is your thing, in Moscow you might find nirvana.

Though we had promised ourselves we'd stick to just a few clothes and souvenirs, fate (read opportunity), fashion and insatiability had other plans.

The ladies in our group quickly sniffed out the best spots, (thanks to Shruti Wani) hopping from one shop to another with an energy that could put marathoners to shame.

Meanwhile, the uninterested lot -- mostly us men -- found solace in warm cups of coffee or simply wandering around, people-watching and pretending to look thoughtful.

It turned out to be a good idea to let the ladies loose.

Their stamina was astounding -- they could walk for hours, discuss prices in detail, haggle like seasoned traders, emerging victorious- carrying bags of little goodies and wearing big smiles.

For the high-end lovers (that's not us), all your favourite brands -- Gucci, Chanel, Prada, Dolce, Vuitton and the like -- were well-represented at the GUM, TSUM, and other glitzy malls spread across Moscow.

These sprawling complexes selling hi-fi stuff were, at best, only good for window shopping.

If you're a bargain hunter or have a lighter wallet, then Sadovod Market is where the real action is.

It's a massive, somewhat chaotic complex -- a maze of numbered rows and shopfronts, each area dedicated to specific items: Shoes, handbags, menswear, kids' clothing, toys, kitchen goods, and much more.

Most of the 'branded' stuff is made in China. You'll find copies of luxury brands with impressive finish and jaw-droppingly affordable prices.

Who won't mind a Prada bought at a pocket friendly price to strut around with?

Unfortunately, we couldn't do full justice to the place -- with money, time, and baggage limits looming large, some dreams had to be parked for the next visit.

Another colourful surprise awaited us at Prospekt Mira, a shop in the middle of the main street selling millions of beads, pearls, stones and jewellery making hardware. (Look for such shops in other areas too).

Luring you to sift through the many hanging semi-precious stone strands, we ended up spending many hours here, spending a few thousand rubles on gifts for family and friends.

The ladies found it an enriching experience imagining which string of stones would match the numerous party outfits at home; inventing reasons to buy just one more strand.

And then came Wednesday, and with it, Izmailovsky Market -- a veritable wonderland for anyone looking for souvenirs.

Artists and craftsmen from across this huge landmass set up stalls, displaying homemade wares that could leave one spoilt for choice.

Matryoshka dolls (remember those many dolls of different sizes that could fit into the biggest doll?) in every size and style imaginable, hand-painted lacquer boxes, carved wooden curios, traditional ceramics, fur hats, and even full-length fur coats.

It was an enchanting assault on the senses -- and on our wallets.

This market opens just for a few hours so remember to be there on time.

Maybe next time, maybe when we come to experience the white Russian winter, maybe with a few extra suitcases... we could shop till we drop!

Overloaded to the brim with bags -- and memories -- we were all set to head back to India when an unexpected twist extended our stay in this beautiful country.

Due to the escalating crisis in Iran, flights from Moscow to the Middle East were suspended, which meant that we couldn't make it for our connecting flight.

What followed was a flurry of anxious calls and hasty rearrangements.

Thankfully, our friends at the Indian embassy (God bless them!) came to the rescue, helping us sort out visa extensions, stay arrangements, and everything in between. But that, as they say, is a story for another day.

Overall, I would rate Russia as a must visit country -- a beautiful experience which I would like to repeat sometime later.

Feature Presentation: Ashish Narsale/Rediff