Are Your Gel Nails Secretly Ageing You?

'Gel polish look nice but your nails might not thank you for it later,' says Dr Rinky Kapoor, dermatologist and co-founder and director, The Esthetic Clinics.

From their glossy finish to chip-free perfection, gel manicures have become a staple especially during the festive and wedding season when everyone wants picture-perfect hands.

But while they promise beauty and convenience, few realise how harsh the process can be on your nails and even your skin.

So much so that certain gel formulations and UV nail lamps have already been restricted or banned in parts of Europe, owing to potential health risks.

Do you believe gel nails are just a harmless beauty trend? That because they're done at a good salon, they're safe? That the only 'damage' is to your wallet?

"Think of nails as an investment. They're not just for beauty, they're a reflection of your overall health," Dr Rinky Kapoor tells Rediff's Rishika Shah.

Dr Kapoor studied dermatology at Mumbai's Lokmanya Tilak Municipal Medical College and has been a Visiting Fellow at the Stanford University School of Medicine.

Are there any hidden risks of UV curing lamps? How frequent manicures can cause long-term nail and skin damage? What precautions can we take? Dr Kapoor breaks it all down.

Can you explain what gel nails are and why they've become so popular among young people?

Gel nails are essentially a type of manicure where a gel-based polish is applied to the natural nails and then cured under a UV or LED lamp for longevity.

This curing process hardens the polish, giving a glossy, long-lasting finish that can last two to three weeks without chipping or smudging.

I believe their popularity among young people stems from the combination of convenience, durability and aesthetic appeal.

Unlike traditional nail polish, gel nails maintain a polished, freshly done look for weeks, which is especially appealing for those with busy lifestyles or for anyone who enjoys nail art and vibrant designs.

When patients come to you with nail or skin issues, what are the most common problems you see linked to gel manicures?

The most common issues I see is thinning of the nail plate, brittleness, peeling and slow nail growth.

In some cases, fungal or bacterial infections develop, particularly if the nail surface or cuticles have been damaged during application or removal.

I also frequently encounter allergic reactions or irritation around the nail folds, which include redness, itching and sometimes even small blisters.

These are usually linked to chemicals in the gel polish or prolonged exposure during the curing process.

The process often uses UV or LED lamps. Can this exposure actually damage the skin or increase the risk of premature ageing?

Absolutely.

Much like how being in the sun without sunscreen can cause ageing and skin damage, regular exposure to UV nail lamps can also damage the skin on the hands.

The thin skin on the hands is particularly vulnerable to photo-ageing, which causes fine lines, pigmentation changes and loss of elasticity.

While each manicure involves a short exposure, regular use over months or years can cumulatively contribute to premature ageing.

LED lamps emit lower levels of UV radiation but they do not eliminate the risk of skin damage.

There's also talk about a cancer risk. Is that a genuine concern with gel nails?

Studies show that the risk of skin cancer from gel nails is low but not non-existent.

UV light can damage DNA, which may contribute to skin cancer; however, the short duration of exposure during typical manicures minimises this risk.

A 2023 study found that a single 20-minute session led to cell death in 20 to 30 per cent of the cells, with three or more consecutive sessions causing up to 70 per cent cell death and DNA mutations associated with skin cancer.

But, and this is a significant but, cumulative exposure over the years could have an impact.

[Supporting this, oncologist Dr Niti Krishna Raizada adds: UV or LED lamps used in gel manicures emit low levels of UVA light, posing a very small but real risk of skin damage or cancer with very frequent, long-term exposure -- for years.

Occasional use carries minimal risk, comparable to brief sun exposure.

Simple precautions, such as applying sunscreen to the hands, using finger guards or limiting the frequency of manicures can further reduce this theoretical risk.]

Apart from UV exposure, what harmful ingredients in gel polishes should we be aware of?

Many gel polishes contain chemicals such as methacrylates, formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate.

These substances can trigger allergic reactions, irritate the skin and, in some cases, may have systemic effects if exposure is frequent and prolonged.

Some people may experience contact dermatitis or rashes even with a single exposure while long-term exposure can cause cumulative irritation or sensitisation.

Choosing '3-free' or '5-free' gel formulations can significantly reduce these risks.

How do these chemicals affect the nails themselves? Do they make them weaker, brittle or prone to infection?

Yes, repeated gel applications can weaken nails over time.

The combination of chemicals and the curing process can thin the nail plate, making it more brittle, prone to splitting and slower to grow.

The method of applying the polish itself can also damage the nails. You might have noticed that, in order for the gel polish to adhere, the nail technician may need to scuff up your natural nails to create a rough surface.

These micro-traumas to the nail surface weaken and make them more brittle, increasing the risk of infection.

Additionally, the sealed environment created by gel nails can trap moisture and bacteria, increasing the risk of fungal and bacterial infections especially if you are someone who is constantly topping up and refreshing with no breaks.

Are certain groups more vulnerable to the risks, like teenagers, pregnant women or salon workers who are constantly exposed?

Teenagers often have thinner nails and more sensitive skin, making them more prone to chemical irritation and allergic reactions.

Pregnant women should also be cautious, as repeated chemical exposure might have risks, although occasional manicures are generally considered safe.

Salon workers are at the highest risk due to chronic exposure to chemicals and repeated UV light.

Proper protective measures, including gloves, ventilation and limiting exposure time are crucial to prevent long-term effects.

We often hear that the removal process is harsher than the application itself. What kind of damage does acetone soaking or filing actually cause?

Acetone soaking strips the nails of their natural oils and moisture, which can cause immense damage to the nail itself.

It also dries out the surrounding skin, such as the cuticles, which can cause dryness and irritation.

Mechanical filing damages and thins out the nail, which can lead to brittleness, peeling and splitting, particularly if the removal process is rushed or repeated frequently.

In fact, aggressive filing can permanently thin the nail plate, weaken cuticles and make nails more prone to infections.

If someone notices redness, itching or peeling around their nails after using gel polish, should they be worried? What could these signs indicate?

Yes, these are warning signs and should not be ignored.

They often indicate an allergic reaction or contact dermatitis caused by chemicals in the gel polish.

In some cases, these symptoms could also signal an early fungal or bacterial infection.

If irritation persists or worsens, it's best to consult a dermatologist.

Is the damage from gels reversible?

Some damage is reversible but only if proper care is followed.

Moisturising, using nail-strengthening treatments and avoiding aggressive filing or chemical exposure can help restore nail health.

However, the most effective way to minimise the impact of gel nails is to take regular breaks between manicures -- a minimum of two weeks but the longer the better.

If possible, ditch your fortnightly or monthly appointment and save gel manicures for only special occasions, such as weddings and travel.

IMAGE: Dr Rinky Kapoor. Photograph: Kind courtesy Dr Rinky Kapoor

For young people who don't want to give up gels completely, what precautions would you suggest to reduce the risks?

First, limit the frequency of gel manicures and allow your nails at least two weeks to a month between applications.

At the salon, choose gel products labelled '3-free' or '5-free,' which exclude some of the most harmful chemicals such as formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate.

Applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen on the hands before your manicure or pedicure can significantly reduce potential damage.

Reapply sunscreen if your hands are exposed to sunlight later and keep nails and cuticles moisturised.

Gentle removal is also critical; avoid scraping or aggressive filing.

It's also worth exploring other alternatives. Press-on nails or traditional nail polish may not last as long as gels, but they allow you to try different colours and styles without repeated UV exposure or harsh chemicals.

Alternating between gels and these gentler options can help maintain nail strength and prevent long-term damage while still allowing you to enjoy stylish nails.

Finally, if you had to give one golden rule for safe nail care in your 20s, what would it be?

The golden rule is: Prioritise nail health over aesthetics.

Nails are delicate and take time to recover from chemical or mechanical damage.

Think of nails as an investment in your overall hand health.

Strong, well-maintained nails are not only beautiful but also less prone to infections, breakage and premature ageing.