The turnover is so astounding that it seems impossible for stall owners to keep track of the constant back and forth exchange of money. How do they not get cheated? "No one would do that here at Mohammed Ali road," a man explains. "This is like a family atmosphere. Who would steal from their own family?"

It's true that a familial vibe reigns, as several impoverished beggars move about the crowd, collecting quite a fair sum and enjoying the same food as everyone else. A tiny boy named Abdul and his sister walk hand in hand, munching on Sheek Kebab Pavs and pointing at the various sights on display.

An out of towner, from India's northeastern state of Assam, walks dumbfounded through the crowd. Not a native of Mumbai, she says that the sights, sounds and smells of Mohammed Ali road are completely new to her. "It's so magical and mysterious. I especially love the iftaar and different agarbattis (incense sticks). Honestly, it's like a different country! I've read so much about it, but it's overwhelming to actually be here, in a good way of course."

Also see: A call to the faithful