The collection is Abloom! The theme or inspiration is 'radiant and/or covered in flowers'. I've tried to explore flowers as patterns, which is two-dimensional, and flowers as structure and textures, which is three-dimensional."

But, while I think it's important to have a guiding concept or theme, you can't allow it to rule over your whole collection. Ultimately, I'm not looking to make only concept dresses. I want to make something that has people say, 'Wow, that's a fabulous, wearable dress! I have to have it!' rather than, 'Oh, that's a nice concept dress.' Now, if that fabulous, wearable dress was driven by a concept, all the better. Great. I think people are interested in purchasing an intelligent product, but concept should never overrule aesthetics.

On Indian models and the 'Size Zero' controversy
Indian models are of a healthy size. I was just working in New York, and those models are really skinny, like stick size! We have a different visual language of what we consider beautiful in India, and that includes voluptuous, curvaceous women. I, as a designer, actually prefer a healthier model, because using size 0 models is like putting the clothes on hangers! I think it's important to see how the clothes will look on an actual full figure.

On what materials he works with:
Only natural products -- silks, chiffons, georgettes, etc. I belief you should buy less and get high quality.

On the Indian fashion industry:
Firstly, it's a very new industry. It's hard to stress how important this is. Compared to a France, that has a hundred-year-old tradition of high fashion, we're literally just beginning here in India. Still, there's a lot of potential, a lot of talented designers and an eager, informed buying public. It's raising the bar of Indian fashion as a whole, and it's clear that progress is being made and professionalism is increasingly a part of our industry's culture.

At this point, however, we're not at the point where high fashion is making a huge impact on many people's daily lives. That day is coming, when India is a global fashion player, but we're not there yet. One day in the future, I think a Delhi or Mumbai may be included in that list: Milan, Paris, London, New York.

How will the global financial crisis affect Indian fashion?
Obviously, the events of the last two months will have an effect. But we can't be sure what exactly will happen, as it's still too early to tell. One thing is sure, consumers will still buy. They may be more discerning, but that's a good thing. I do think we'll see lots of colour, an explosion of colour, in the next few months. In a recession, people tend to wear all-white or very vibrant colours!

Text: Matthew Schneeberger

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