Lal Chowk in the heart of Srinagar was Kashmir's leading venue for protests where fortified defences had been set up by security forces.
Today a group of youngsters dances at the Chowk and makes reels.
Dressed in black jeans and tops, four girls were doing a synchronised walk as four boys standing opposite made a reel of the girls' act.
This is happening just below the lit up Clock Tower in Lal Chowk at the heart of Srinagar on the eve of Independence Day.
Till a few years ago, the spot, a literal Hindi translation of the Communist 'Red Square' in Moscow, was Kashmir's leading venue for protests with fortified defences set up by security forces.
Security personnel used to be stationed inside a bunker at the base of the Ghanta Ghar itself. Today, young tourists are making reels in gay abandon with loud peals of laughter.
Tourists walk around and stop by to take pictures of the iconic spot which was built by Bajaj Electricals in the 1980s and given a face lift recently.
Since tourism in Kashmir has been severely hit after the Pahalgam terror attack on April 22, Lal Chowk did not have the usual throngs of people.
"It is quiet now, otherwise this place is choc-a-block," said a local.
The central part of the square is an open space with benches where one can spend an interesting evening. There are rows of shops on either side and every now and then a salesman accosts you to direct you towards the stores in the buildings opposite Lal Chowk.
Hotels -- one is called 'Naya Kashmir' -- line the chowk.
A giant electronic screen on the far end has information on government schemes and I-Day greeting. There is a selfie point with the colours of the national flag promoting the 'Har Ghar Tiranga' slogan.
Armed CRPF personnel in camouflaged uniforms keep quiet vigil. A five minute walk from Ghanta Ghar is the Balidan Stambh in honour of Jammu and Kashmir police personnel who died in the line of duty.
Inaugurated on I-Day last year, it was closed on the eve of I-Day last week. Security personnel were guarding the gates in keeping with the security drill because Chief Minister Omar Abdullah was to pay homage the next morning [August 15].
From Lal Chowk, past Balidan Stambh to Polo View is a nice stretch for an evening stroll.
In between Ghanta Ghar and Balidan Stambh is Press Colony where security personnel and armoured vehicles stand guard, a stark reminder of a gruesome tragedy that happened here a few years ago.
As I stand outside the office of a Kashmiri newspaper, I am told that right where I am chatting is the spot where journalist and Editor of Rising Kashmir Shujaat Bukhari was gunned down by terrorists in 2018.
It shakes you up and makes you realise how violence has left deep scars in Kashmir.
At a newspaper vendor's shop opposite the Press Colony, the shop owner has started selling Kashmiri souvenirs instead of newspapers. But he hasn't given it up completely because in the corner of his stall are a stack of the day's newspapers including Rising Kashmir.
As we pick up a few newspapers and ask him how much to pay, "How can I accept money for newspapers from a journalist?", the Kashmiri vendor tells us with a genial smile.
He refuses the money even after much persuasion and only accepts it on the next day when we return to buy another set of newspapers.
This time we won the day - but his warmth and appreciation for newspaper readers won our hearts.
Photographs curated by Manisha Kotian/Rediff
Feature Presentation: Aslam Hunani/Rediff