We picked up some gems about what works in the international market and how to build your brand from Didier Grumbach, Chairman, French Association of Couture, and Chairman, Chambre Syndicale de Haute Coutur -- a prominent figure in the world of international fashion. This is what he had to say
A designer must not be influenced by anyone else. "He has a message that is totally his own. He creates something that doesn't exist in the world, which becomes international." Didier quotes the example of French designer Jean Paul Gaultier who didn't sell a piece from his first show. "He was weird. Of course, he thought his clothes were very wearable. In a year or two, it became a trend and he built a repertoire. Because of such a repertoire, the brand survives even after the departure of the designer."
Didier also mentions designers like Chanel and Balienciaga, whose brands live on even today. He calls Gaultier an artist, whose designs brought out his own personality. This is one approach to designing.
Designing for an audience
The other approach is to adjust designs to a specific territory and with a target audience in mind. He stresses that being a world-class designer is not just about how many orders you get. "You can be very successful in selling. You can also make a fantastic impact and get few orders. To build your brand, these two things are complementary."
India on the international ramp
According to Didier, here are no nationalities in the world of fashion and India must be shown to the world in the right way. "The way we will look at fashion with your Indian culture is something that will add o the world community the way Japan has succeeded in changing the way we work and feel. We dress in a Japanese manner without even knowing it, thinking it is part of the everyday world," says Didier.
He quotes the examples of Japanese designers Kenzo, who opened his first boutique in 1970, and Issey Miyake, who first showcased his collection in Paris in 1973. Eventually, both went on to make a mark on the international map.
Photograph: Jewella C Miranda