Periyar: A walk in the woods

From elephants, Sambar deer, a Nilgiri langur and many more animals and birds, a treat lay in store for Suchismita Banerjee at Lake Palace Resort on the Periyar Lake.

 

 A very strict routine often prompts one to seek an escape in the form of a short holiday.

I didn't want an aberration from this 'thumb rule'.

So, after some intense research on the Internet, KTDC's Lake Palace Resort on the Periyar Lake came up as the answer to my prayers.

In November, we drove to the outskirts of the Periyar Tiger Reserve (Thekkady, Kerala) late one morning.

The weather was pleasant, and it was inspiring to wait in the cool shade of the looming trees.

We waited for the boat from the resort to pick us up from the jetty.

Lake Palace Resort runs its personal boat service -- to pick up new boarders, and also for conducting tours around the PeriyarLake.

When the boat arrived, we bypassed other tourists waiting for the regular boat tours of the lake, and stepped into the boat.

The 20-minute boat ride took us to the beautifully manicured lawns of the resort. We were greeted by the courteous staff and were then taken to our tastefully furnished room.

History buffs will be glad to know that the Lake Palace Resort was originally the summer retreat of kings of Travancore, when they went out on hunting expeditions.

Our room was decorated with wooden furniture, and wore an antique look.

The unique carvings on the bed added to the regal charm.

The windows opened to the beautiful Periyar Lake.

After unpacking, and having a sumptuous lunch, we decided to explore the resort.

We sat by the lake on an ornate bench.

This serene, bluish-grey lake gave us the impression of a mirror; there was hardly any wind to create even a single ripple.

The reflection of foliage from the opposite bank was a medley of (fall) colours on this still canvas.

 

It soothed our tired nerves.

Slowly as the sun set, thirsty animals arrived for a drink from the lake. There was a herd of Sambar deer and wild pigs.

Being a wildlife enthusiast, it was a treat to watch the animals, especially when I realised that I was in the august company of a Nilgiri langur.

The langur had called it a day, and from a large tree beside the bench, it was watching the thirsty menagerie.

At this precise moment, out of the forest, emerged two elephants.

Lazily they made their way towards the waterbody; one of them sometimes stumbling over a rock or two.

The resort had provided us with powerful binoculars.

I watched closely using the binoculars to try and figure out whether the animal was injured, but what I found made my heart leap with joy.

There, between the protective legs of the mother was a little one.

Running along with uncoordinated steps, it had reached the water's edge gleefully.

It dipped its tiny trunk into the water and shook its head happily as the adults quenched their thirst.

The mother then tried patiently to show her baby how to use its trunk and drink water.

The little one blew into the water, looked at its mother, danced about and wildly shook its head from side to side.

Finally it lay down happily on the ground as the indulgent mother filled her trunk with water and splashed it on her baby.

Then they disappeared into the dense foliage. It was dark by that time. So we returned to our room.

After a lavish dinner, we indulged in a casual chat with the manager.

He informed us that we were indeed lucky to have sighted the mother-calf duo.

On enquiring about the tiger of the Periyar Tiger Reserve, he informed us that tiger sightings are more likely during the dry months of April or May.

It's that time of the year when the elusive king sheds its cover, frequently enough, to come and have a sip.

We retired for the night, excited about the lake cruise the next morning.

The trip around Periyar Lake was memorable.

The boat cruised quietly near the forested bank, as we witnessed a duel between two sambars.

They approached each other cautiously before locking horns, and fought on, till the more agile of the two overpowered its stocky counterpart.

Luckily, that was just the start to the wide range of animals we were about to see.

We spotted a couple of elephants, a herd of bison, several deer and wild boars too.

The beautiful blue Periyar Lake is also home to a number of birds.

We spotted bitterns, a darter drying its wings, egrets, pond herons and kingfishers (white throated and pied) darting in and out of the lake, sometimes with a shimmering prize between their strong bills.

However, the most striking one was the presence of a number of cormorants.

They perched themselves on the dead trunks that were jutting out over the lake's surface.

On some of the protruding logs, we watched with amusement, the residents had created their own condominiums and lived a very social life.

We then gorged on the superb spread which the resort had laid out for us, and spent the evening engrossed in the hustle-bustle around the lake.

The langur must also be a permanent resident, for its long tail gave away its presence on the same tree again.

On the last day of our sojourn, we undertook an interactive nature walk.

It is a simple concept where a small group of like-minded people participate in a walk conducted through the forested terrain, accompanied by a nature expert.

Throughout the walk, our guide pointed out the different trees, their genre and uses.

Occasionally, he even drew our attention to the shy bird that remained well camouflaged within the tapestry of leaves and branches.

Though the walk lasted for about a couple of hours, it left us feeling enthralled.

There are other walks and activities too (which require a little more time) like the cloud walk, green walk, bullock cart ride and bamboo rafting.

There is also a tiger trail which lasts for a minimum of two days.

What is commendable about the Periyar Tiger Reserve is its dauntless effort to promote community based eco-tourism.

It is a thrill to participate in the walks and rafting experience, apart from creating a great level of awareness about nature through hands-on experience.

Periyar provides an unparalleled rendezvous with nature.

It's an experience that will remain etched in my mind for a long time.

How to reach

By air: Convenient airports are Cochin (190 km), Trivandrum (270 km) or Madurai (140 km).

By rail: Nearby railway stations are Kottayam (110 km), Ernakulam (190 km) or Madurai (135 km).

Alternate places to stay: Aranya Nivas in the reserve itself, on the fringe of the Periyar Lake, is your best bet. (Prior booking advised).

The Bamboo Grove, Jungle Inn and Jungle Camp under Kerala Forest Department are also commendable places to stay.

Shopping: There are souvenir shops selling an attractive array of handicrafts, t-shirts and other colourful wares on the outskirts of the reserve.

Photographs: Suchismita Banerjee