Recipes: Coorg Payasam, Bamboo Shoot Fry

Kodava food or cooking from Kodagu/Coorg in Karnataka is unique for reflecting its forest ecology, martial culture and agriculture, starkly different from the typical rice-and-coconut heavy coastal cuisines of South India.

Possessing aromatic, robust flavours, it is replete with dishes which are well-spiced but not fiery, where the taste of roasted, freshly-ground spices is a hallmark.

Sourness defines the flavour profile too and it usually comes from kachampuli, a vinegar made from Garcinia cambogia, that lends a special taste to preparations, instead of tamarind.

A meat-centric cuisine, pork is celebrated and is usually slow-cooked in its own fat. Pandi Curry is synonymous with this region.

No coconut milk or thick gravies characterise most dishes. Its zest comes from spice pastes and fermentation. Rice is generally not eaten as a plain rice, but in the form of Akki Roti, Nool Pattu, Kadambuttu. Bamboo shoots and horse gram sprouts are found in popular vegetarian preparations.

Adrika Anand talks to Divya Uthaiah about Coorgi food and she offers the recipes for Baimbale Barthad, a bamboo shoot fry, and Maddh Kool or Payasa.

Uthaiah is a Kodavathi home chef based in Bengaluru and a digital creator on a mission to preserve and share authentic Kodava recipes on Instagram and YouTube via @thefoodholicbydivyauthaiah.

She explains what exactly Baimbale Barthad is: "In Kodava households, bamboo shoots (baimbale) are more than a seasonal ingredient -- they mark the monsoons and reflect generations of traditional food knowledge. This Kodava-influenced bamboo shoot fry keeps the flavours simple, allowing the natural taste of the shoots to shine."

"Lightly-spiced and comforting, it is usually served with Rice Otti or rice flatbread, steamed rice, or as part of a wholesome meal. The dish captures the essence of Kodava cuisine: Minimal spices, bold flavours and deep respect for local, seasonal produce."

Maddh Kool is a traditional sweet rice porridge from Kodagu, prepared using the purple elixir extract of maddh thopp or Justicia wynaadensis leaves during the monsoon.

This dish is traditionally made for the Kakkada Padinent festival, celebrated on August 3 every year. The maddh plant is believed to possess 18 medicinal properties, especially known for cleansing the body and boosting immunity.

Baimbale Barthad Or Bamboo Shoot Fry

Serves: 3-4

In Advance

• It is very important to soak the bamboo shoots in water for 2-3 days, changing the water twice daily.
• Boil them in fresh water 2-3 times, discarding the water each time.
  This removes bitterness and toxins.

Ingredients

• 2 cups cooked bamboo shoots
• 2 tbsp oil, preferably coconut oil
• ½ tsp rai or mustard seeds
• 8-10 pods garlic, crushed
• 3-4 dry red chillies, broken
• 1 sprig curry leaves
• 1 medium onion, finely sliced, optional
• ½ tsp red chilly powder
• ¼ tsp haldi or turmeric powder
• Salt to taste, about 1½ tsp

Method

• Boil the bamboo shoots thoroughly and strain the water.
  Keep aside.
• Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat.
  Add the mustard seeds and let splutter.
  Add the crushed garlic, dry red chillies, curry leaves.
  Sauté until aromatic.
  Add the sliced onion, if using, and sauté until soft and lightly golden.
  Add the turmeric powder, red chilly powder, salt, mix well and lower the heat.
  Add the cooked bamboo shoots and mix until well coated with the spices.
  Cook uncovered, over medium-low heat, for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the flavours come together and excess moisture evaporates.
  Take off heat and serve hot.

Maddh Kool Or Payasa

Ingredients

• 1 bunch maddu thoppu or Justicia waynaadensis leaves (please see the note below)
• 1-2 litres water
• 5-6 pods green elaichi or cardamom, lightly crushed
• 1 cup rice, washed
• 1 cup sugar or jaggery or to taste
• ½ cup grated coconut
• Ghee, for serving
• Chopped bananas for garnish, optional
• Salt to taste, about ½ tsp

Method:

• Boil or pressure-cook the Justicia wynaadensis leaves in water for about 30 minutes, until the liquid turns a deep purple.
  Strain and discard the leaves, retaining the extract.
• Pour 5-6 cups of the extracted purple liquid into a thick-bottomed saucepan.
  Add the cardamom pods, salt and bring to a gentle boil, over low heat.
  Stir in the washed rice, cover, cook until the rice becomes soft and creamy.
  Once the rice is fully cooked, add the sugar or jaggery and mix until completely dissolved.
  Add the grated coconut and simmer for a few minutes, allowing the flavours to blend.
• Serve hot, finished with a spoonful of ghee, garnished with chopped bananas.

Editor's Note: Maddu thoppu or Justicia waynaadensis leaves are hard to find outside of the Coorg/Bengaluru area. But its extract and jelly is sold online at www.coorgmarket.com.

• REDIFF FOOD