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Have you tasted these ancient Indian curries?
By Chef Kunal Kapoor
October 25, 2018

These five recipes by chef Kunal Kapoor will take you back in time and taste.

1. Qaliya

In 1327, Mohammad Bin Tughlaq decided to move his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad because of constant attacks on the sultanate, present day Aurangabad.

He felt being at the centre would help him control a larger part of the country.

But Tughlaq had a huge army to be fed and taken care of. His cooks who were from Central Asia came up with the idea of Qaliya, in which instead of saffron, they added turmeric for colour and its antiseptic properties.

Today Aurangabad still makes Naan Qaliya.

It is also claimed that the first qaliya was made in India in 7th century in Bengal by the Arab traders who landed at the port of Chittagong.

Some of the popular versions of qaliyas made in the country are Kundan Qaliya by Nawabs of Oudh, Chamman Qaliya in Kashmir, Macher Kalia in Bengal and Mahi Qaliya in Hyderabad.

Qaliya is currently limited to homes in Aurangabad and Kolkota.

Kundan Qaliya has almost vanished from the dinner tables and replaced with Kormas which are easier to make.

Ingredients

Method

2. Kunna Gosht

The dish from undivided Punjab is a nomadic dish, born somewhere in Chiniot, Faislabad.

Today, Pakistan side of Punjab still makes Kunna Gosht at homes but in India, very few Punjabi families are into making Kunna /Kunni or Matka gosht

Ingredients

For the masala

Method

3. Murg Musallam Oundh style

The dish has various claims that it was part of Delhi sultanate first and later became a popular dish on dinning table of Nawab of Oudh.

Historically, it was first mentioned by Ibn Battuta in his rehla (journey) that he has consumed a full chicken in the court of Mohammad Bin Tuglaq.

Gradually Oudh has also made Murg Musallam in their court. The dish is mentioned in Ain-e-Akbari (Akbar's constitution), which means it was also part of Mughal dastarkwans (spread).

While the style of cooking may vary, the stuffing also varies.

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Method

4. Bugga Curry

The dry bugga is now a story of past.

It's a bit stinky so the young generation may not like eating bugga. They prefer Bombay duck over it.

Even in koli homes, very few make dry bugga curry. Even restaurants in Mumbai make kharavlelya bagya chi ukad (fresh bugga curry) only on special request.

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Method

5. Chicken Chitanee

This curry was made famous by Bagdadi Jews based out of Kolkata.

Over the years the diminishing population of Bagdadi Jews in Kolkata has to led to a question whether this dish will survive in India.

Most Jews have migrated to Israel.

The only restaurant which served Bagdadi jew cuisine also shut down last year in Kolkota.

Ingredients

Method

Chef Kunal Kapoor is part of Curries of India, a show that features on LF, an international lifestyle channel.

Chef Kunal Kapoor
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