Recipe: Divya's Kappa Mulakittathu or Tapioca Stir Fry

For Malyalees kappa aka tapioca is what poha (puffed rice) is to Maharashtrians. A staple in Kerala homes, the tuber has various interesting stories of origin and is a popular topic widely discussed and debated during breakfast and dinner hour.

While some may tell you that the name kappa comes from kappal (ship in Malayalam), because apparently the Portuguese brought the tubers (that originated from Brazil) to India on ships and cultivated them here, there is another account of a certain ruler from Travancore who introduced it as a poor man's meal during a famine.

But the most fascinating tale I heard from an elderly apoopan (who is no more) during one of my trips to Kerala. He told me that kappa is not a Malayalam word and narrated the story of how tapioca or cassava came to be known as kappa.

According to him, when the British came to Kerala, they were curious about this strange looking tuber that was served for breakfast as well as dinner. It looked like potato, but it wasn't.

When they tasted it for the first time, they instantly fell in love with it and wanted to see how it was cultivated. During one such harvest event, the Britishers noticed how the workers would dig deep into the soil to find the roots of the tuber and then cut it.

If they couldn't find the end of the root, they would tell each other to dig deeper. He even sang a song to mimic how the workers entertained themselves during this event.

'Evide? (Where is it?)' one worker, it seems, asked the other.

'Tappa', the other responded, which means 'Continue looking/digging'.

The Britishers, obviously, misheard the word and thought they meant kappa. And that's how the humble tapioca got its name kappa.

Interesting, right?

Now whether or not this story makes any sense today, I have always loved this version of kappa's history because every time someone hears it, there is always room for some laughter.

Today, there is hardly anyone I know who hasn't tasted kappa in some form. The processed form of tapioca is sabudana or sago, widely used in different parts of India as a fasting recipe, or as a papad.

GenZ, of course, would associate sago with their favourite version of boba or bubble tea.

But for Malayalees, kappa is not just another food ingredient, it's an emotion. You can have boiled kappa with almost anything, but it is best served with meen curry (fish curry) or beef curry.

Most Malayalees would agree that you get the best kappa as a side-dish at the local shaapu (bar) often served with cheap local liquor.

If you are new to tapioca, here's a simple recipe you can make for breakfast or as an evening snack at home -- with or without meat or liquor :).

Kappa Mulakittathu

Serves: 2

Ingredients

• 300 gm fresh tapioca
• 1 tsp haldi or turmeric
• 8-10 shallots
• 2-3 dried red chillies
• Salt to taste, about 1 tsp
• 2-3 sprigs fresh curry leaves
• 1 tsp rai or mustard seeds
• ½ cup freshly ground coconut
• 3-4 tbsp coconut oil

Method

• Peel the tapioca and cut into 1½ inch cubes.
  Wash well -- at least twice -- to remove mud or soil deposits.
  Bring to a boil in 3 cups water with a pinch of the salt and the turmeric, over medium heat in a saucepan.
  Check after 8-10 minutes -- if the piece breaks easily, it is cooked (please see the note below). 
  Drain and cool.
  Keep aside
• Roughly chop the shallots and grind coarsely along with the red chillies in a mixer/blender and keep aside.
• In a saucepean or a kadhai, heat the 2-3 tbsp of the coconut oil.
  Add the mustard seeds.
  When they splutter, add the curry leaves and the ground onion-chilly paste.
  Add a pinch of salt and saute over medium heat for 3-5 minutes.
  When the oil separates, add the boiled tapioca and mix well.
  Add more salt or chilly if preferred.
  Cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes over low to medium heat.
  Garnish with the grated coconut.
  Take off heat and pour the remaining 1 tbsp coconut oil on top.
  Serve hot.

Divya's Note: Some varieties of tapioca may take longer to cook -- about 15-20 minutes.

Kappa Mulakittathu can also be served as a side dish with rice and curry of your choice.

• REDIFF FOOD