• MATUNGA: There are several restaurants in this area, often dubbed mini-Madras, where one can have a good South Indian meal. Try Ram Nayak's Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding. Eat as much as you can, the meal is very economical. No alcohol. No credit cards.

• Shivsagar, Juhu Beach: Udipi food is top of the line. Crowded, but service is quick. Very economical.

• Suvidha, D N Road, Near Victoria Terminus, tel # 2042131 (you may have to wait for a table at lunch): Excellent authentic Udipi dishes. Try the rawa idlis. Economical.

• Tanjore, Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, tel # 2023366 (booking advised): South Indian thalis are served at this upmarket restaurant. Classical dance performances every evening. Cuisines - thalis - from other parts of India are also available. Good ambience.

• Woodlands, Juhu-Vile Parle scheme (bookings advised; else, you may have to wait for about an hour for a table in the evenings or on the weekend): Authentic south Indian cuisine. Functional decor. Economical.

• Woodside Inn, Opposite the Regal cinema (no bookings required): Vegetarian. Ask that the dosa or idli be served with the powder chutney.

Goan, Keralite, Maharashtrian, Mangalorean cuisine

• Ananthashram, Kotachiwadi, Girgaum: Even the Spartans would find this restaurant spartan, but let that not distract you from the food which has a flavour all its own. The faithful clientele includes some of Bombay's most illustrious figures, but members of the management, who double up as waiters in their vests and pyjamas, remain untouched by the glitter.

• Apoorva, SA Brelvi Road, Off PM Road, tel # 2870335: Like Mahesh, it serves decent seafood, Mangalorean style. Avoid the chicken neer dosa and chicken roti. Alcohol served, Major credit cards accepted.

• Excellensea, Hotel Bharat, Ballard Estate, (Bookings advised for Excellensea), tel # 2618991: Patronised by the city's upwardly mobile while the rest eat downstairs at the functional Bharat. Good seafood, Mangalorean style.Try the crabs, fish, koliwada prawns, prawn gassi with idli. Reasonable. Does home deliveries. Alcohol served. Mastercard, Visa cards accepted.

• City Kitchen, Ballard Estate (it could get crowded at lunch-time): Established by Sacru Menezes, a former Indian hockey goal-keeper, this spartan restaurant serves some of the best Goan food in town, at excellent prices. The chicken, fish and pork dishes are good, but spicy. No alcohol. No credit cards.

• Gajalee, Hanuman Road, Vile Parle (East), tel # 8388093. Seafood, served Maharashtrian-style. No alcohol. Major credit cards accepted.

• Goa Portuguesa, Milli Building, Dhananjay Keer Chowk, off Cadell Road, Near Hinduja Hospital, Mahim (booking advised), tel # 4440202: Good Goan food. Try the pork sorpotel or the prawns xacuti. And the bibinca for dessert. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Janardan, Khar-Danda village, tel # 6460910: A tiny shack, but the seafood is good. If you don't want a takeway, sit at one of the three tables and try the prawn cutlets, tiger prawn, steamed fish. Call ahead for specific preferences. Beer served. No credit cards please!

• Mahesh Lunch Home, 8 BC Patel St, Off PM Road, tel # 2870938: Good seafood, Mangalorean style. Try the grilled pomfret and tandoori crab. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Sayba, SV Road, opposite the Bandra mosque, Bandra (no bookings and you may have to wait an eternity at peak hour for a table): Excellent fare, typical of the Maharashtra coast. Try the prawn vindaloo.

• Sheetal, Khar and Sheetal Samudra, Unity Compound, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, tel # 6126218, 6182872 (Bookings not essential). Good seafood. The lobster -- which you can choose from a tank -- is recommended, but do remember to ask the price before placing your order. Else, the bill could be cause for dyspepsia. Also try the fish steak and masala crab. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Sindhudurg, Near Sena Bhavan, Shivaji Park (No bookings, but you may have to wait your turn for a table at dinner-time): Though mutton and chicken thalis are served, choose the fish thali. Always interesting fare. No alcohol. Mastercard, Visa cards accepted.

• Trishna, 7, Rope Walk Lane, Near Commerce House, Kala Ghoda, (no bookings, but you may have to wait for a table), tel # 2672176: Good seafood, Mangalorean style. Try the ladyfish and crab. Functional decor, but a bit cramped.

Italian and Continental food

• Cafe Royal, The Oberoi Towers, Nariman Point, (booking advised) tel # 2024343: Good but not authentic French food. Rather international continental food. Overdone decor. Expensive. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Fiorella, The Leela, near Sahar airport, Andheri (E), tel # 8363636: Good Italian food. Classy decor. Plenty of vegetarian choices. Expensive. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• Little Italy, Juhu Tara Road: Run by devotees of Osho Rajneesh. Good vegetarian food. Expensive.

• Palms, The Oberoi Towers, Nariman Point, (booking advised) tel # 2024343: An Italian buffet is laid out on Thursdays. Good food, plenty of choices. Yummy desserts. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• The Rotisserie, The Oberoi, Nariman Point, (booking advised), tel # 2025757: Inspite the name, good international continental food rather than French. Lovely decor. Expensive. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Shatranj Napoli, 12, Pali Hill, tel # 6498457: Italian and Indian cuisine. The Italian stuff is interesting. Beer served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Society, Ambassador Hotel, Churchgate, (book ahead), tel # 2041464, 204-0531: Good continental food available alongside good Mughlai fare. Try the lasagne, the crepes Suzette or the saag mutton. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Trattoria, Hotel President, Cuffe Parade, Colaba, (bookings at meal-time is recommended), tel # 2150808: Good Italian food. Nice desserts. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Zodiac Grill, Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder (booking advised), tel # 2023366: Often cited as Bombay's finest restaurant. Good French food which can be eaten in a splendid setting (However the food is more international continental rather than French). Obviously expensive. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

Mexican

• Casa Mexicana, Oberoi Towers, Nariman Point, tel # 2024343: Quirky ambience. Good Mexican food. Try the lunchtime buffet. Expensive. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• China Garden, Om Chambers, Kemps Corner (book in advance), tel # 3680841/3645064: Good Chinese fare though some dishes have been adapted for Indian tastes. Expensive. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• China Gate, Off Waterfield Road, Bandra: Cramped, but the food is swell. Try the chicken lollipops, prawns wrapped in bacon.

• Chopsticks, 354, Linking Road, Khar, (booking advised) tel # 6499009: Try the chicken chowmein, tsinghai chicken, prawn pepper salt. Expensive. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted. Monday closed.

• Great Wall of China, The Leela, near Sahar airport, Andheri (E), tel # 8363636: The quality tends to be rather temperamental, but try the seafood rices. Pleasant decor. Expensive. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• Kamling, 82, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate (booking advised), tel # 2042618/ 2045643: In a city where virtuallyevery restaurant serves Chinese cuisine (the Chinese don't need to launch another war against India; they have already won the War of the Palate) and the fare is more Indian-Chinese than Chinese, Kamling serves up the authentic stuff. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Ling's Pavilion, Off Colaba Causeway, Near Regal Cinema (book in advance) tel # 2824533, 2850023, 2850024: Even though owner Baba Ling is only half-Chinese, he serves the most authentic Chinese fare in town. Members of the Chinese consular staff in Bombay can be spotted feasting on native delicacies in the comfortable restaurant. Expensive. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Mainland China, Saki Naka junction, Andheri Kurla Road, tel # 8379656, 8387264: Pleasing decor. Spacious. Try the burnt ginger rice, tiger prawns, crispy spinach and the darshaan.

• SampanHoliday Inn, Juhu Beach, tel # 6204444: Small restaurant. But the Chinese food is great. Try the everyday rice. Credit cards accepted. Alcohol served

• Thai Room, Hotel President, Cuffe Parade (book ahead), tel # 2150808: Excellent Thai food. Try the lobster or the wide noodles. Yummy desserts. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

Quick Bites, Pizza, Salads, Sizzlers

• Cafe Royal, Opposite Regal cinema, Colaba: The city's latest hot-spot. The food is above par, but expensive. Alcohol served.

• Gaylord, Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate, tel # 2820985, 2044693: Continental and Indian fare available. The outdoor cafe is very popular. Alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• Kobe, 13, Sukh Sagar, Hughes Road, Off Chowpatty (booking advised), tel #3632174: Good sizzlers. Waiters can be requested to bring your choice of topping. Teeny-bopper, smoke-filled decor. No alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted

• Leopold, Colaba Causeway, tel # 2873362, 2020131: Tourist hangout, hence the non-spicy fare. The plain, bread crumb fried chicken is much favoured by tourists. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• The Oberoi Lounge at the lobby, The Oberoi, Nariman Point, tel # 2024343: Have a cuppa, but the sandwiches and pastries are overpriced. Great place to come on a monsoon day. Watch the storm clouds roll across the horizon. Credit cards accepted.

• The Oberoi snack bar in the shopping arcade, The Oberoi, Nariman Point, tel # 2025757 (the snack bar is shut on Sunday, but not the pastry shop): Recommended for sandwiches and pastries (available from the pastry shop next door), accompanied by beverages. Finding a place to sit may be tough.

• The Palms, Oberoi Towers, Nariman Point, tel # 2024343: A breakfast buffet -- cheese, rolls, bread, pastries, fruit, juice, waffles, pancakes, puri and aloo, idlis, dosas, omlettes -- is available between 7 and 11 am. Try the South Indian stuff. A buffet lunch is also available. Nice decor and view out to sea. Credit cards accepted.

• Saladero, Golden Gate, Madam Cama Road, Not far from Regal (bookings advised), tel # 2027989: Downstairs they serve regular Indian fare, upstairs they have a salad buffet for lunch, between 1 pm and 3 pm. Good stuff. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• Samovar, Jehangir Art Gallery, Kala Ghoda, tel # 2844508: Try the stuffed parathas. Beer served. Major credit cards accepted

• The Sea Lounge, Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, tel # 2023366: The food is not exciting, but the ambience is what makes it popular with the city's elite. Read a book or watch the activity on the waterfront from this perch. Recommended: the Viennoise ice cream. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• Sundance Cafe, Eros Cinema building, Churchgate: Thirty-plus folk can feel ancient and jaded in this teen paradise. The food is not as exciting as the crowd. Lots of pretty girls to gawk at. No alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

• The Tea Room, Tea Board, Resham Bhavan, Next to the IMC, Churchgate: Good place to sit for hours nursing a pot of tea -your choice of tea. Extraordinarily economical.

• Temptations, 127, Noor Mahal, Tardeo, tel # 4946473, 4946744: Good sandwiches. Try the pita envelopes stuffed with aloo bhaji or the cheesy garlic bread. Fair desserts. Lively menu for kids. Nice ambience, excellent service. No alcohol. No credit cards.

• Trattoria, Hotel President, Cuffe Parade, Colaba, tel # 2150808: The Italian lunch buffet on Sunday is recommended. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• Waterfall Cafe, The Leela, Near Sahar Airport, Andheri (E), tel # 8363636: Sunday brunch. Good value for money. Interesting decor. Alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

• Wayside Inn, Rampart Row, Kala Ghoda, tel # 2044324: Vegetarians keep away, this is a site for carnivores. Relaxing, old-worldly ambience. Beer served. No credit cards.

• Yoko, West View, Vivekanand Road, Santa Cruz, tel # 6492313 (booking advised): Fair sizzlers. Very "in" place for the moment. Crowded. Smoky. No alcohol served. Major credit cards accepted.

Try any of the 24-hour coffee shops at the five star hotels:

• The Shamiana at the Taj;
• The Trattoria at the President;
• The Palms and La Brasserie at the Oberoi
• Salt and Pepper at the Ambassador
• The Shoreline at the Juhu Centaur, Juhu
• Waterfall Cafe at the Leela
• The Sidewalk at the Holiday Inn
• The Mirage at the Ramada Hotel Palm Grove.