An era had ended -- and the party had begun

Aravind Vidyadharan in Hong Kong

It had a bit of everything -- laughter and tears, high drama and higher tensions.

And at the end of it all, the sun had set -- after 156 years -- on yet another outpost of the once mighty British Empire.

The farewell ceremony was both colourful and emotional as the British administration of Hong Kong laid down the reins to the accompaniment of massed bands; marching troops, dragon dances, pyrotechnics and the rest of the celebratory paraphernalia.

Outgoing governor Chris Patten, overcome by the sheer emotionalism of the moment, told a gathering of British peers and Hong Kong Chinese that "Hong Kong's people shall govern HK -- that this is not just a promise but the unshakeable destiny."

The applause, led by Prince Charles, British Prime Minister Tony Blair, former prime minister Margaret Thatcher, Foreign Secretary Robin Cook, former foreign secretary Geoffrey Howe and other British politicians, lasted minutes, with Patten taking repeated bows throughout.

And the thunderclap of applause was followed by the louder crash bang sparkle of a pyrotechnics display lasting a good 30 minutes, to the delight of the crowds gathered near HK harbour.

Earlier, Prince Charles said in his address that the handover "marks both change and continuity at the same time."

"While there's now a change in sovereignty, there is also continuity because HK will continue to have its own present government, economy and way of life," the prince of Wales said.

Paying tribute to the people of HK for their achievements in 156 years of British rule, Prince Charles said "Hong Kong has shown that dynamism and stability are defining characteristics of a successful economy, it has shown how the East and the West can work together.

The prince, ever optimistic, added that the Joint Declaration and Basic Law of HK, instituted by the Chinese government, "guaranteed autonomy and an elected legislature."

Interestingly, as Prince Charles was making that promise, and Patten was assuring the crowds that the people of Hong Kong shall govern Hong Kong, the Democratic Party -- the largest single party in the Legislative Council elected under Patten's aegis -- was holed up in the Legislative Council building, protesting the disbandment of the Legislative Council and the installation of a Provisional Legislature -- a soft of sombre counterpoint to the applause and optimism.

Martin Lee Chu-ming, leader of the Democrats, said that while June 30 marked a glorious day in HK history, signalling as it did the end of 150-plus years of colonial rule, there could be no rule of law in HK unless the Chinese government held elections and installed a Legislative Council chosen by the people.

He drew the most applause when he ended his speech with the promise: "We shall return!"

Elsewhere Patten, along with Prince Charles and other dignitaries, boarded the Royal yacht Britannia and sailed away.

While emotionalism and unintentional irony marked the departure of the British, a business-like efficiency marked the takeover by the Chinese.

At 1:30 am on July 1, Tung Chee-hwa, the new chief executive of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of China, said while taking oath of office that he would "serve the people of Hong Kong, and be responsible to the government of the People's Republic of China and the Hong Kong SAR."

He was followed by Chief Secretary Anson Chan Fang On-san and the other policy secretaries, who retain the posts they held under the outgoing government.

Immediately thereafter, the members of the Provisional Legislature, led by its president Rita Fan, were sworn in.

Earlier, speaking at the handover, Chinese President Jiang Zemin said that the peaceful handover of Hong Kong to China by the UK marks a "festival for the Chinese nation and victory for the universal cause of peace and justice. The Hong Kong people are now the true masters of this Chinese territory," Jiang said.

Echoing Patten's promise, Jiang assured the HK citizens that "Hong Kong people will administer Hong Kong, and Hong Kong will enjoy a high degree of autonomy." Only foreign and defence affairs will be managed by the Central government in Beijing, the Chinese President announced, while adding that laws of the land would remain basically unchanged.

"HK people will enjoy rights and freedoms as per the laws of Hong Kong, it will develop its own democratic systems that suit Hong Kong's reality," Jiang promised, to applause from around 4,000 special invitees and dignitaries attending the ceremony at the specially constructed extension to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

India was represented, at the pre-handover and handover ceremonies, by Kamala Sinha, minister of state for external affairs. Prior to the ceremonies, Sinha met Tung Chee-hwa for discussions during which both leaders agreed on the need for fostering the friendly ties that exist between Hong Kong and India.

At about 2:10 am, the inaugural and establishment ceremony of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region was declared to have been brought to a successful completion.

Hong Kong had passed over, from the hands of the British into that of the Chinese.

Government House, residence of outgoing Governor Chris Patten, has been destined to become a museum dedicated to 156 years of Rule Brittania.

An era had ended -- and the party had begun, as the citizens celebrated in the streets, bars and at private parties throughout the region.

"Today," a specialist in East Asian affairs commented on television, "is time for celebration. A year from now will be time enough to assess the fallout."